135 replies to this topic

[Rhodri]

Sounds like you're having much fun!

If I may add my peneth here.....

Don't load up a thick walled tube with fast burning (Willow C 75:15:10) for a fountain - you may be in for BIG surprise. Fast burning BP should be used for lift or a bursting charge. You 'tame' it by adding metals, C etc. to slow the rate of deflegration to produce effects such as gerbs, fountains etc.

If you tightly tamp good BP into a tube you're moving toward the 'banger' type firerwork.

Try your Willow BP on its own unconfined first to check its rate of burning.

Once you've mastered making good BP you could easily make some Roman Candles using some of your fountain mix and dextrin to make the stars!

Edited by Rhodri, 09 September 2003 - 08:41 AM.

[RegimentalPyro]

Tried some of my frisky BP this morning. It's a lot darker than my first batch which was almost gray in appearence. It's also a lot finer, resembling airfloat charcoal in it's ability to get things messy!

A small pile of it (1/2 a tspoon with a touchpaper fuse) burnt bright and fast, and I got an almost audible "whoosh" or "fsssssh" sound. The residue that was left was a sort of blackish ash with none of the glowing globs of sulphur that I got last time. My first thought as I saw it burn was something along the lines of "Hooo yeah!"

Will hold off the "banger" for the moment, but a Roman candle sounds like much fun. I'll do some research first but expect questions RealSoonNow ™. Think a new thread might be in order for that.

[Rhodri]

Sounds like almost BP to me. A quick test.

Take a sheet of plain white paper - A4 foolscap will do.

Place a small portion of powder (less than a 1/4 teaspoon) onto the paper.

Fuse, ignite and stand back.

The paper itself should only be barley scorched. If the powder is of 'good quality' the paper will take on a charred appearence. You'll also be able to see the action of the hot gases by the pattern created. The pattern should resemble that of 'blowing paint' with a straw.

If you get holes in the paper, or the paper actually takes fire, your powder is either not in the correct ratios or has not been sufficientlycombined.

There should be hardly any residue left after the burn too.

I use this test all the time to check the quality of my powder.

Simply re-mill and test again until you get the right grade.

[PanMaster]

Thats an unfair test, performance isn't just based on the residue or the way the flame burns or propagates.
I have found that so called 'good' bp has no advantage over any old bp that leaves little residue when it is completely confined in a solid barrel. The pressure created causes similar damage everytime I try using a projectile, the main factor in power is the amount used and the confinement. THe better the confinement, the less difference the powder quality makes.

Edited by PanMaster, 09 September 2003 - 04:16 PM.

[RegimentalPyro]

Did your test Rhodri - Paper almost exactly as you described it. Scorched but not burnt through in any spot. Residue was like specks of ground pepper, in a circle around the scorchmark. Also noted something like a grease stain around the scorchmarks...Dunno what caused THAT!

Looks like you were right about the willow charcoal! Garden charcoal sucks by comparison........

Either way, unfair test or otherwise, I got that "Hooo Yeah!" feeling again and the "pyro grin" appeared on my face. Think I wanna
a) loft some stars into the air with this stuff!
Make a bang! - Must resiissssst!

[Rhodri]

Good stuff! Looks like you're well on your way now.

PanMaster - you're right. I was trying to keep it simple. If someone hasn't made good BP before then they won't be in a position to fire projectiles. I know lanching a golf ball is a test for powder power but the white paper does and will give a good indication of the 'quality' of the powder in a straighforward and safe way.

[RegimentalPyro]

OK A synopsis of what I have learned from this thread.

1) Measure your comps accurately. I now use a digital jewellers scale that measures up to 120g in increments of 0.1g.
2) Make sure your ingredients are as close to a powder as possible. I now mill the willow charcoal before combining with Sulphur powder and KNO3 powder for a final milling
3) Don't be discouraged by poor BP. The point of the exercise is to learn. Keep your comps, even if they do not turn out as planned. You'll find a use for it.
4) Only change one variable from one milling to the next.

Thanks for the assistance and patience guys - I'll see you in the RomanCandle forum <grin>

[Rhodri]

We look forward to it!

[BigG]

OK A synopsis of what I have learned from this thread.

2) Make sure your ingredients are as close to a powder as possible. I now mill the willow charcoal before combining with Sulphur powder and KNO3 powder for a final milling

Just a point to make – Your ingredients need to be close to powder ONLY is your formula require so. BP require very fine ingredients, other items might requite coarse materials to get the best effects.

BigG

[hewettn]

Why is Black powder Grey more than Black, should it not be called Grey Powder?

Nigel

[PanMaster]

grey when dry, black when wet, or you could just make it without sulphur in ratio 80:20, then you could call it cocoa powder

[hewettn]

Thanks for the info

[sasman]

Rhodri mentions alec tirranti's Al Powder is it atomized or flake? is it any use for sparks, glitter, flitter?.. i have just looked at there prices and there very cheap...Only im just going to order some graphite from them and wondering is it worth geting there Al powder

[miniskinny]

I've found that excluding sulphur from BP mixes tend to help out with residual problems, such as an 80-20 KNO3 to Willow Charcoal mix.

[Jerronimo]

Rhodri mentions alec tirranti's Al Powder is it atomized or flake? is it any use for sparks, glitter, flitter?.. i have just looked at there prices and there very cheap...Only im just going to order some graphite from them and wondering is it worth geting there Al powder

Alec's powder is atomized, it works very well in glitter formulas and produces nice sparks.
the iron weighting filler is also recommended.

I have ordered several times from them, and they always reply quickly and also deliver very fast, for the price you realy can't go wrong.