My system worked
#31
Posted 25 November 2004 - 07:47 PM
#32
Posted 25 November 2004 - 08:25 PM
#33
Posted 25 November 2004 - 11:17 PM
For cat 3 and cat4 pyro a 12 - 24 volt power supply should sufice. It is unlikely that any responsible firer would be more than 20 metres from the devices. If you are further away then you cannot secure the perimiter without aid.
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#34
Posted 26 November 2004 - 05:24 PM
PLC controller is Mitsubishi FX1s-10MR-ES/UL.
Edited by Kembang Api, 26 November 2004 - 05:27 PM.
#35
Posted 28 November 2004 - 04:05 PM
Ha ha, you got me bang on there. I would love to be able to find something to allow me to do that. As I said, my electronics expertise is next to none, but I'm learning. I'm thinking about looking at visual basic programs that could automate the firing program so I can run it off a laptop, but that is for next year.
All the cables are 25m by the way, rated to 60V, 1A per core.
This is truly a nice panel. Bravo!
If you?re interested in doing a laptop powered show ala VB there are a number of ways to handle that. We can assume you don?t want to buy a shrink-wrapped solution? Your computers printer port will probably be the easiest thing to control (what?s you?re programming experience?). Anyhow that gives you 8 data lines and a few control lines to work with. I?m not much of an electronics geek so I stole my plan from the web (http://computerchris...ow_to&HowToId=4), you will need to isolate the output lines with a relay or SCR or something so you don?t draw to much power through your chips.
-Cat
#36
Posted 28 November 2004 - 11:25 PM
Thanks for the link. looking at that site there should be room to manouvre from christmas lights to ignitors (same things really). Would never have thought of looking for a solution there!!
Your quite right about not wanting an 'off the shelf' program. I have great satisfaction in building something myself that works correctly and looks decent, it's part of the Barnes Wallace in me. (I am a secret avid fan of Scrapheap Challenge aswell )
#37
Posted 29 November 2004 - 10:11 AM
Found a box now for my panel Box
My mates "borrowed" most of the parts from his University.
Managed to get 200m of 8 core alarm wire fro ?25 delivered
I tried using a printer port before on a pic programming thing for a skool project.
Wasted my mobo
"Are those my balls on your face?"
#38
Posted 30 November 2004 - 01:36 PM
#39
Posted 07 December 2004 - 01:15 PM
Probably best to use core 8 as a parallel common, then the command wire is as reliable as possible. If you need to fire two or more cues down one multicore at once the volts drop across the common could lead to misfires.
12 volts is enough for fairly long leads, a small stack of AA alkaline cells or a small rechargable 1 or 2AH alarm battery will fire all the cues needed for a night's show. LeMaitre firing boxes use two 9v PP3 batteries and they last ages.
What do you mean by a parallel common???
I have ordered all my bits today, so hopefully by the end of the week i should have my panel made
Now i need to make some electronic ignitors, cant afford the bickford ones yet
Anyone know a good method that works on low voltage???
I got plenty of quickmatch, as my uncle just got me a load.
Chester, what kind of LED did you use on your box????
"Are those my balls on your face?"
#40
Posted 07 December 2004 - 10:14 PM
I guess "parallel common" means using 6 of the 8 cores to run the current out and 2 of the cores, commoned together to run the current back. Double the thickness, less resistance, allowing mutiple cues to be fired at once.
#41
Posted 07 December 2004 - 10:36 PM
Now i need to make some electronic ignitors, cant afford the bickford ones yet
Anyone know a good method that works on low voltage???
You can make good cheap electrical ignitors with low power resistors. Available from RS [rswww.com] stock code 144-009
All you have to do is ensure that they are situated so that they press against the quickmatch core.
To do this I pull a bit of QM core out of the sleeve, fold it over with the resistor sandwiched inbetween, and then push the core back into the sleeve. I then twist the wire "tail" onto the resistor ends and insulate the lot with electrical tape.
They go in under a second at 12v on the end of 50metres of wire. I use 24v and they passfire almost instantly.
#42
Posted 07 December 2004 - 11:15 PM
So practice using different lengths if you cannot regulate the voltage and you should get the desired effect
#43
Posted 08 December 2004 - 07:15 PM
#44
Posted 09 December 2004 - 08:31 PM
I'll keep you posted with pictures of the project, at the moment i'm building the outstations.
Toby
#45
Posted 10 December 2004 - 11:45 PM
how much media should i put in the container and how much green mix? My ball mill only spins at 60rpm i am assuming this is sufficient?
Any help much apriciated. Thanks
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