Dragon egg's
#61
Posted 21 August 2006 - 06:46 AM
#62
Posted 21 August 2006 - 06:28 PM
Anyone tried Acetone Peroxide for dragon eggs? I know a source of Lead Tetraoxide, but no bismuth.
My brain tells me to keep away from soluble lead compounds, so I thought the peroxide might me an alternative. The only problem is to get it detonate. When contact with flame inn small amounts, it only pops with a relatively large fireball, but if confined, compressed or in large amounts, it detonates with a very loud crack. If I compress it as best as I can and add a thin but strong layer of something around it, it should work very well.
Anyone tried this?
I can't believe you suggested such a stupid thing. Dragons eggs can be sensitive enough without bringing ultra-sensitive primary high explosives into the equation. I don't even like the idea that some U.S. pyro's put pistol / shotgun primer caps into stars to use as crackling.
Seriously... think before you click the 'send' button.
#63
Posted 21 August 2006 - 08:36 PM
Therfore, i thought AP (with ammonium nitrate) could be an alternative Again, sorry. Just delete my posts if you find it so.
#64
Posted 22 August 2006 - 05:37 AM
And AP is less sensitive than everybody says (personal experience), but should be handled with extreme care
The famous last words before he losses a part of his body.
#65
Posted 22 August 2006 - 01:23 PM
I'm sure it will take some time until i get my first batch of bismuth trioxide here in Norway, but safety first.
Thanks
[quote]The famous last words before he losses a part of his body[quote]
By saying that AP is less sensitive than at least i thought before testing, doesn't means that i'm not as careful as usual. But, let's stop that discussion and continue on the great dragon eggs topic
Edited by Anders Greenman, 22 August 2006 - 01:24 PM.
#66
Posted 22 August 2006 - 05:18 PM
If it wasn't for it's degradability and incompatibility, triacetoneperoxide would be the industry's wonder primary explosive - powerful and very cheap to make. There are other materials used every day that are just as, or even more sensitive but they are a lot more stable, and that is the most important factor.
Anyway...
Please stop all talk of using such things in fireworks and PYROTECHNICS...
#67
Posted 22 August 2006 - 09:24 PM
I will not bother looking for other more safe alternatives as a substitute for bismuth trioxide, at least for now. Anyway, I have enough eggs to keep me busy at least to New Years Eve. Then, it's ordering time.
#68
Posted 23 October 2006 - 10:54 PM
I have shellac, pvc, polystyrene and range of solvents but haven't seen a formulation that mentions anything but NC laquer and like to check before substituting.
#69
Posted 24 October 2006 - 07:08 AM
#70
Posted 01 November 2006 - 12:51 AM
I had not tried them before, so opened up my chem store and mixed the standard 75% bismuth trioxide, 15% fine magnal, 10% black copper oxide, +5% Al, bound with NC lacquer. This was grated with a kitchen seive into a slow BP meal dust prime to form cracker granules. They ended up very fine - I would guess 0.5 to 1.0 mm.
The granules worked well on the ground, popping and cracking all over the place. A bag mine with 5g of granules in a 1" mortar, with 2g of corned BP lift gave a good thump (and indeed scared the kids off ), but the 'time rain' effect I had been hoping for just didn't happen. All I managed was a few sparks...
To make this work in the air, I'll try bigger granules (perhaps with more solvent / lacquer) and maybe a hotter prime. Any hints? Will I need to use a matrix comp?
Edited by BrightStar, 01 November 2006 - 05:58 AM.
#71
Posted 01 November 2006 - 09:44 PM
I think the reason NC lacquer is use is because it burns buy it self, the other binders you mentioned don’t burn by them self. If I’m wrong please correct me.
Thanks for reply, I just got some NC laquer as it seems there isn't a substitute (none found anyway), so you're probably correct.
I'm putting them in fountains first (when I get them to work) as small granules and maybe a cone if that works ok. I'd like a crackling rocket but 95% sure it would CATO .
Edited by EnigmaticBiker, 01 November 2006 - 09:45 PM.
#72
Posted 04 November 2006 - 06:01 PM
Edited by they say im crazy, 04 November 2006 - 06:09 PM.
i might buy them just PM me
#73
Posted 05 November 2006 - 05:54 PM
I'm putting them in fountains first (when I get them to work) as small granules and maybe a cone if that works ok.
Hope your pressing and not ramming those fountains! I recently tested some and 80% exploded when hit with a hammer on a concrete floor. You can press with a vice for small fountains, or press the last 1" or so by hand. Also use a large nozzle so they can exit the tube.
#74
Posted 05 November 2006 - 08:35 PM
Fired from the 1" mortar with 2g of BP lift, and the sky was filled with sparking cracking granules. No exotic primes needed, this just worked
Edited by BrightStar, 05 November 2006 - 09:05 PM.
#75
Posted 05 November 2006 - 10:37 PM
I used more laquer too (12% of whatever strength the laquer was, work testing), a few percent in fountains worked really well. As did a BP fountain and small gerbs wth up to 20%A very quick success report
Pressed carefully with a wooden rod, I don't ram anything.
Rolled some stars using Bp and cracking core, tried in small roman candles. The didn't work so well but that's more to do with my lack of experience with star rolling. The cores were too small.
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