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#91 EnigmaticBiker

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Posted 30 November 2006 - 12:05 PM

Thanks EnigmaticBiker. It's a little bit pity becouse I don't have magnalium and in the Lithuania it's almost impossible to get it.

It is a pity.
There is a thread about making it, but it does need experience in melting metals.

Many Aluminium alloys contain Magnesium but have not heard of anyone using say, 10% Mg aluminium alloy.
Maybe I should try it...


#92 Strobe

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Posted 09 May 2007 - 11:33 AM

Has anyone tried using Bismuth Subcarbonate, as suggested in the skylighter article:

http://www.skylighte...dragon_eggs.asp

I saw a mention of it previously in this thread but not alot of info or followup regarding it. The skylighter article seems to refer to it as something to experiment with as opposed to a proven formula.

I'd like to do crackling microstars at some point. I don't want to use red lead if I can avoid it and Bismuth TriOxide is quite pricey compared to the subcarbonate ($28/lb vs 13/lb).

The only other Bismuth based formula I've seen used Bismuth Subnitrate but I am unaware of any sources for it

#93 Mumbles

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Posted 14 May 2007 - 04:26 AM

I used it once. I got it on clearance before that article was released. I took a formula and converted by moles to the subcarbonate. I can't remember which was the base formula, probably the standard Bismuth Oxide one. I got something very similar to the formula given. It kinda sizzled with some weak pops, not the loud staps I was hoping for.

#94 Strobe

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 10:51 AM

Thanks Mumbles. Doesnt sound like its worth it then.

How about Bismuth SubNitrate anyone ever tried that out?

#95 Mumbles

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 06:34 PM

Well, I never tried the formula given. I've heard that one works a lot better. I probably should have specified. I've used it, but just not in that formula. Frankly I've never gotten good dragon eggs, even using Pb3O4 under a proven formula. I think my MgAl may be too fine. Yes, I said too fine. You actually want a coarser mesh. The reaction proceeds in two phases, and too fine of a mesh will react too fast and give you more of a sizzling than the snaps.

#96 pudi.dk

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Posted 15 May 2007 - 09:23 PM

What mesh size did you use? Please don't tell my -250 mesh is useless
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#97 Mumbles

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Posted 17 May 2007 - 10:28 PM

I used 200 mesh. I've heard 100 or 60 mesh is much better.

With the Pb3O4 ones I've tried I get a few snaps instead of the one per egg I'd prefer.

#98 al93535

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 05:15 AM

The Mgal is INDEED the deciding factor in dragon eggs.

I have tried many many times to make eggs. I have tried a few different kinds of mgal. The only eggs I ever got to work excellently were made from high quality mgal.

325 mesh mgal will make eggs that snap really fast after ignition, 200 mesh will provide more of a delay and so on..

I highly encourage you to seek good quality mgal from a pyro supplier, or other commercial source. It should be bright and shiny, fresh and NOT dull.

I know someone who used Bismuth Subcarbonate with good results. I use red lead at home and it works great, and at work we use Bismuth Trioxide and of course it works great as well.

Never tried the subnitrate, nor have I heard of anyone that has.
The more I learn, the more I know I don't know.

#99 pudi.dk

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Posted 19 May 2007 - 09:45 PM

al>http://www.keten.org...odczynniki.html

So the magnalium on that site is bad for dragon eggs?
Doesn't the shine of the magnalium have something to do with the shape of the particles just like aluminium?
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#100 al93535

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 08:42 AM

Looks rather strange if that is an actual picture of it. Does yours look like that?

I will take a picture of mine, 100, 200 and 325 mesh grades and post them here tommorow.
The more I learn, the more I know I don't know.

#101 pudi.dk

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 09:35 AM

My -250 mesh Magnalium brought from ebay looks silvery, looks from a little distance like atomized aluminium but a closer look shows its silvery particle surface. I have not brought from keten yet, but I was planning to, so I just asked to see if the magnalium was usable or would suck.
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#102 leosedf

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 01:53 PM

http://www.level4.gr/eggs1.wmv
Those are the dragon eggs i made with my first (and last) order from keten. The magnesium is 230-250 mesh.

NOTE: on the video it says magnesium 200mesh but i was wrong about it.

Edited by leosedf, 20 May 2007 - 01:56 PM.


#103 karlfoxman

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 02:08 PM

Magnesium? Do you mean magnallium as that is what the previous posts are about. Link does not work for me!

#104 al93535

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Posted 20 May 2007 - 07:11 PM

Those are not that bad. However, you are using a rather strange formula. Try this:

Lead Tetraoxide: 75%
Magnalium: 15%
Copper oxide (black): 10%

Are those eggs primed? what are they primed with?
The more I learn, the more I know I don't know.

#105 leosedf

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Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:10 AM

Yes! Sorry i ment Magnalium, my mistake.
This formula is from passfire, i also tested a comp with 89% Lead Tetraoxide and 11% Magnalium but they make only a sharp and loud "crack" sound with minimal flame or sparks, i will prepare that video too.

All of this eggs have NO prime on them (for now). I am using shimizu Dragon egg prime
Potassium Perchlorate 70
Magnalium, granular, -200 mesh 20
Red Gum 10 (substituted with shellac)

The real problem is to isolate the stars and use them as cores, i rolled a Chrysanthemum #6 comp on them and the crackle effect was ruined, they only do some little flashes. :(




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