Buying chemicals.
#1156
Posted 27 October 2008 - 06:31 PM
#1157
Posted 27 October 2008 - 06:34 PM
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#1158
Posted 27 October 2008 - 06:52 PM
it was already 250# or finer components so doubt that would improve things greatly. The problem was I wanted them to be usable with commercial systems so was up against a wall in the first place. Also with graphite being basically inert it acts as a fire depressant in the pyrogen too.
Just use a slurry of graphite and NC lacquer for the first 2 dips, then another dip into BP slurry (or something even hotter) to give this ematch a bit of a kick...
The distance between the two wires is also critical, 1mm or less works best. Using an oxotic pyrogens is conterproductive in this case.
#1159
Posted 27 October 2008 - 08:06 PM
Click here for Cooperman435, THE online shop for chemicals, materials and tooling
Click here to email me Personally,
Click here to email Optimum Fireworks, West Yorkshire's premium Display Company
#1160
Posted 28 October 2008 - 09:32 AM
so you strongly advise a 2 dipping (or more) process? putting the "bridge" on at first then the pyrogen on top.
Yes, the bridge goes on first, then the pyrogen. Give them a try and tell us how they work.
#1161
Posted 03 December 2008 - 06:28 PM
#1162
Posted 11 December 2008 - 07:47 AM
Have recently bought chems,tubes,shells and bits and bobs from Cooperman and moonfruit,good stuff gents may you continue,reasonable prices and postage and good service unlike a particular very expensive robbing g*t,support these guys people they make it possible for us to continue our hobby/pastime/passion/addiction,also would like to say at no point was a discount mentioned for being a k**s ar**
I'd can second this
I have dealt with Coops many times and he is straight up and well priced.
Sadly I didn't get paid for this commendation but there's nothing wrong with k*****g ar** now and again
#1163
Posted 14 December 2008 - 09:43 AM
Just started pyro again after a 1 year sabbatical and was browsing true my stock of chems.
I got a bag of heavy grayish/black powder and stupidly didn't label it.
I can't recollect if this is dark pyro antimony trisulfide or silicon powder as they both look very similar in my memory, it does have very, very tiny shiny particles in it.
Anybody know how to do a simple test to determine what chemical I have? maybe someone can make detailed macro shots of both?
If memory serves me right I got the bag from Cooperman so maybe he can tell what stuff I got?
#1164
Posted 14 December 2008 - 11:17 AM
And A**e K*****g is duly noted.
Edited by cooperman435, 14 December 2008 - 11:19 AM.
Click here for Cooperman435, THE online shop for chemicals, materials and tooling
Click here to email me Personally,
Click here to email Optimum Fireworks, West Yorkshire's premium Display Company
#1165
Posted 14 December 2008 - 01:24 PM
Silicon has kind of a reddish brown tint to the powder, and is less dense than Sb2S3 which is seriously heavy shit.I'm not sure this is the right section to post in but I've got a little problem here,
Just started pyro again after a 1 year sabbatical and was browsing true my stock of chems.
I got a bag of heavy grayish/black powder and stupidly didn't label it.
I can't recollect if this is dark pyro antimony trisulfide or silicon powder as they both look very similar in my memory, it does have very, very tiny shiny particles in it.
Anybody know how to do a simple test to determine what chemical I have? maybe someone can make detailed macro shots of both?
If memory serves me right I got the bag from Cooperman so maybe he can tell what stuff I got?
#1166
Posted 14 December 2008 - 09:42 PM
#1167
Posted 17 December 2008 - 09:37 PM
I now know I've got antimony, win39 stars are drying
#1168
Posted 22 December 2008 - 04:45 PM
http://www.gardendir...m-nitrate-p-624
#1169
Posted 22 December 2008 - 05:44 PM
Hello im after some Calcium Nitrate for coloured star comps and would like to know if this is the right stuff:
http://www.gardendir...m-nitrate-p-624
If the rest of the garden direct chemicals are anything to go by then it should be fairly pure.
I can see you having a few problems drying stars containing large percentages of this, as most calcium salts are extremely hygroscopic. (Calcium chloride is used in moisture traps to remove air moisture). If you just plan to add a couple of % to something I dont see a problem though, but using it as the only oxidiser in a comp is probably not practical.
Having a search through the PFP database I found that the only calcium salts used were carbonates, flourides and resinates, the latter of which I've never heard of. Flourides are often quite toxic too, so they may be best avoided.
Would be interested to know how they turn out though, looks like it could be used as a cheap colourant and additional oxidiser.
#1170
Posted 22 December 2008 - 06:43 PM
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