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Cylindrical Shells


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#136 Guest_Daniel Scott_*

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 10:24 AM

From what I have tested CuSO4 + Mg is faster and brighter than BaSO4 + Mg flash.

I have my video documentation I think I will post it in the exotic flash powders thingy.

#137 paul

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 10:53 AM

You?re right daniel scott. But the light is a different one. It?s of course a more yellow light. I wanted a more white/green light, so I used BaSO4. A CaSO4/BaSO4 mix works well with aluminium. For lift effects for example.

#138 Guest_Daniel Scott_*

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 09:37 PM

I don't think you read it properly, I wasn't talking about calcium sulfate rather copper sulfate :S

#139 paul

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Posted 28 October 2004 - 10:29 PM

Yeah, you?re right! Unfortunately I read "Ca" instead of "Cu". Sorry for that mistake!

Should read some posts more carefully.....

Edited by paul, 07 November 2004 - 10:17 PM.

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#140 Pretty green flames

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Posted 29 October 2004 - 04:33 AM

paul....

You may have answered this question before :)
but.....
which fuse do you use for your shells.

Take care
LP

#141 alany

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Posted 29 October 2004 - 10:47 AM

How do you dry out the copper sulfate, and keep it dry?

#142 Guest_Daniel Scott_*

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Posted 29 October 2004 - 12:03 PM

I used copper sulfate pentahydrate. When powdered in a mortar and pestle it goes white like anhydrous - weird. I could try with anhydrous for you if you really wanted. It can be dried in the oven if you really wanted to.

#143 Kembang Api

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Posted 31 October 2004 - 05:58 PM

Hi guys, Has anyone used a KP bursting charge in their 3 inches shell before, I am having blind stars most of the time. Yesterday I shot 28 shell mostly had a blind stars. I was thinking of using BP instead.
Most of my stars had been tested with my star tested tube and having a good results but when I put it in my shell, they all turn blind.
I plan to use the rice hull to BP ratio is 6:1. Could anyone give me some idea or comments. Thanks

#144 pritch

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Posted 31 October 2004 - 06:17 PM

From what ive read kp is no good for small shells because it needs a very thick case to build up enough pressure to burst properly. Even bp is better than it in smaller shells.

#145 paul

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 12:01 PM

Pretty green flames: Sorry for answering your question only now.

I use 2mm thick normal green visco! But there is a very simple substitute if you?re in lack of good visco.

Simply make a small tube with thick walls. For example ID4mm OD8mm. Put a normal green visco from a firecracker in it and fill it up with hot melt glue.

It?s perfekt for timing in shells, because it has a steady burn rate. It?s very reliable, too.

Edited by paul, 01 November 2004 - 12:04 PM.


#146 BurlHorse

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 06:18 PM

If you can't buy timefuse you can make your own spoulette, or roman fuse.

A spoulette is basically a narrow but thick walled tube rammed solidly with meal powder to a depth sufficient to implement the required delay.  Other compositions are sometimes used for effects like comet composition or even whistle.

Blackmatch is normally tied across the outside end of the spoulette and/or the powder scratched with a cross to make it take fire more easily.  On the inside sticks of blackmatch are often tied into some kraft nosing to increase the spurt of fire when it burns through.

As spoulettes are large in area they blow into shells quite easily causing flower pots or muzzle breaks when bottom fused.  Sealing around them and the disk is critical.  The powder column itself can blow through as well and tricks like clay plugs and ramming excess length of powder then drilling down to achieve the timing is used to prevent blow through.

It may also be possible to make timefuse in a cigarette roller as I posted about a while back, but I don't fully trust it yet.

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When Whispering Whistle Mix and Spollettes, PRESS, NOT RAM is the procedure, Some whistle Mixes are Just as Prone to Explosion from shock as Flash some are more so..........I admit it's an effective delay device and a nice effect once you get the timing right with whistle spollettes, Just Don't RAM it.......
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#147 Kembang Api

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 06:51 PM

From Lancaster 3rd edition book. Itis mention that H3 bursting charges are used for small shell, while KP is use in medium size shell and for big shell, it is safer to use BP bursting charge.
The above statement was adopted and since than all my 3 inches shell, used KP with a ratio 7: 1. I also found that in Lancaster book, He mention to keep the ratio 80:20 which is 4:1. Before I change my bursting charge from KP to BP, I might have to adopt a smaller ratio. Thxs

#148 Pretty green flames

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Posted 03 November 2004 - 03:46 PM

OK

Huge dilema

I will order some tubes from essextubes (ID is 76.6mm)
Now if i order from skylighter the shipping is killer.
So instead i'll order them from pyroplastics. Now those shells are an exact
3 inches (76.2mm) That leaves me a gap of 0.4 mm. Would the shells still fit.
If i count all the craft paper i think they won't. Just want to hear your thoughts.

Thnx
LP

Edited by Pretty green flames, 03 November 2004 - 03:47 PM.


#149 Yugen-biki

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Posted 03 November 2004 - 05:09 PM

OK

Huge dilema

I will order some tubes from essextubes (ID is 76.6mm)
Now if i order from skylighter the shipping is killer.
So instead i'll order them from pyroplastics. Now those shells are an exact
3 inches (76.2mm) That leaves me a gap of 0.4 mm. Would the shells still fit.
If i count all the craft paper i think they won't. Just want to hear your thoughts.

Thnx
LP


I had the same problem. But I tried useing paper hemis from china and not plastic.
I solved the problem by makeing my own paper-hemi press. Made out of fine cement and a wooden plugg to press out the paper into a spherical shape.

#150 Kembang Api

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Posted 04 November 2004 - 07:13 PM

Pretty green flames : I think the gap is too small (0.4 mm). I normaly have it in between 5 mm to 7 mm. The gap is more importance as to asure me that the shell will sit right at the bottom and not to leave any space in between the bottom of the tube with the shell, except for the lift charge. What if you have an electric ignitor (Ematch) the cable is more than 0.4 mmm I am sure.




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