Edited by al93535, 13 March 2006 - 12:45 PM.
Cylindrical Shells
#301
Posted 27 February 2005 - 10:27 PM
#302
Posted 28 February 2005 - 07:14 AM
#303
Posted 01 March 2005 - 06:00 PM
?Used 7layers of craft paper for pasting. It?ll be a crysamthemum peony shell.
The pasting isn?t too smooth, because I used homemade shell halves like these
http://www.kkpaul.rp...alb_zuender.jpg
So I have to improve my pasting skills alot...
Greets, paul
Edited by paul, 01 March 2005 - 06:05 PM.
#304
Posted 01 March 2005 - 08:42 PM
karl
#305
Posted 02 March 2005 - 01:00 PM
Here I'm gonna describe my "weird" way of making spherical shells. Important - I don't use any paper at all, and still I have very-very-very strong shells.
First I need a base on what I will make my shell. A simple rubber ball is OK. I cover it with plastic foil, then with a sheet of paper (sorry, the only time the paper is needed...), after that I tape it tightly. This step I need to get my base (a rubber ball) back in one piece so I can use it many times. If the base goes up to the sky as well, go stight to the step two.
Step 2. For making a shell I need 3 components: dextrin, wood or paper dust (fine sawdust is OK) and glue PVA (polyvinylacetate).
Making a shell is actually like growing your round stars. Wet the star and shake/roll it in a mixture, let it dry and repeat until the desired size. Same here. I make a solution of PVA and water. Drop the ball into it. Let it wet.
Mix 1 part of dextrin with 2-3 parts of sawdust. Put the wet ball into that mixture, shake, let it dry. Then drop it into the PVA solution, then shake it with the dextrin/sawdust mixture, let it dry. And so on. After 3-5 covering the shell is ready to cut into half. (Only thing is that I have to cut it very carefully for not cutting my inner rubber base). Fill these two halfs with your stars etc, put together with the tape and continue with step 2 until the size you need.
For the extra strenght I use pure PVA instead of solution in the very first and the very last layer.
And that's it. I found this method be more quick than classical "cabbage", and even more important - it gives in my opinion super quality. For 3'' shell I cover 'bout 7 times. Mostly I use silyndrycal shells, but all my spherical ones made with this method worked exellent!
Right now I'm working with my first 6'' shell. I guess covering some say 15 times would be OK. Effect I hope would be not bad as well - this shell will be filled with many-many small, 1'' shells. I'm gonna shoot it hopefully next week.
Any comments, suggestions, remarks and what ever are very welcome!
Edited by aapua, 02 March 2005 - 01:04 PM.
#306
Posted 02 March 2005 - 01:17 PM
Do you use the finest sawdust available?! And how often do you set these shells aside to dry. After every additional step?!
greets,
kkpaul
EDIT: I forgot to ask about the "problem" with the timefuse. When do you glue it in?! I imagine rolling the shell - with the timefuse allready glued in - in dextrine/sawdust is a bit difficult first?!
Edited by paul, 02 March 2005 - 01:20 PM.
#307
Posted 02 March 2005 - 01:44 PM
Do you use the finest sawdust available?! And how often do you set these shells aside to dry. After every additional step?!
greets,
kkpaul
EDIT: I forgot to ask about the "problem" with the timefuse. When do you glue it in?! I imagine rolling the shell - with the timefuse allready glued in - in dextrine/sawdust is a bit difficult first?!
Sawdust should be as fine as possible. But, I've tried sawdust about 0,5 mm - maybe 2 mm size, the result is OK, although making is a bit complicated.
The drying depends on quality you need - same as with stars. The best way is one covering per 24 h. I usually do one covering in the morning, second in the evening.
Good you mentioned the time fuse. NO, IT IS NOT A PROBLEM, BELIEVE ME OR NOT. After I cut the shell into 2 pieces, I load it fully (it means time fuse as well). Then I cover the very end of fuse with lack or paint to prevent water and glue getting in. The shaking with or without the time fuse - I see no difference... I always make the time fuse about 1 cm longer than needed, after the shell has its desired or required size, I cut the extra piece off.
#308
Posted 02 March 2005 - 04:31 PM
This method could easily be adapted for very quick mass production. Sure you have to wait about 24 hours for each layer to dry, but you could do a good 100 shells in five minutes if they weren?t too big and let them dry.
#309
Posted 02 March 2005 - 04:55 PM
could get a production line thing going and churn out a hundred in a batch if you set your mind to it.
I might have a go when/if i run out of plastic hemis
#310
Posted 02 March 2005 - 05:53 PM
That sounds like quite an easy way to make the shells. Do you have any pictures of the finished product?
This method could easily be adapted for very quick mass production. Sure you have to wait about 24 hours for each layer to dry, but you could do a good 100 shells in five minutes if they weren?t too big and let them dry.
Tnx. It's a bit a problom with pictures. But I'm working on it, so hopefully in few days I can put something for others to see.
As a mass production, chinese shell-makers use pressing method. In this case they use almost dry mixture of dextrin or rice starch and cellulose which is put between two spherical plates and compressed to form half sphere. Before my method, I also started with cellulose. Simply take whole sheets and hold them in hot water, this will give you a "porridge" of cellulose. I tried to press it and did even more different things, until I decided to mill the dried remains. It gave me almost ideal powder. From that I worked out the method I described earlier.
#311
Posted 05 March 2005 - 02:49 AM
#312
Posted 06 March 2005 - 02:03 PM
Because I can?t get my hands on wood dust and this powdered cellulose costs me 4.2? per Kg....
thanks in advance,
paul
#313
Posted 06 March 2005 - 06:01 PM
aapua, I have access to cellulose powder. The particlesize is 200?m (0,2mm). I think this should work, too?!
Because I can?t get my hands on wood dust and this powdered cellulose costs me 4.2? per Kg....
thanks in advance,
paul
The particle size should be just exellent, all I can say is I truely hope it will work :-)
So, good luck for trying, and let know how it worked out when ready?
#314
Posted 06 March 2005 - 06:15 PM
So far I've made mostly 3'' shells, they don't need central charge. For the large ones I make extra, smaller inner shell for the burst charge, just it is not as hard as the main shell itself. I drill holes in it (since I use powder burst charge, I have to pack it into plastic first) - maybe some 20 or so holes. Any comments - are the holes necessary? And even more interesting, since I haven't made too many experiments yet, how hard / strong has to be the burst holder? Isn't there a danger that too hard / strong inner shell makes the ignition of stars worse or even breaks them instead of igniting?
Thanx,
aapua
#315
Posted 06 March 2005 - 09:41 PM
I?d like to share one of them with you It?s the 3" crysanthemum peony shell from the picture earlier in this thread.
http://www.kkpaul.rp...zoll_willow.wmv There it is.
The lift (15g of obviously relatively weak CIA blackpowder) wasn?t strong enough (don?t know why, worked great in the past...) so the shell lwas lifted to about 30m I think
But anyway the effect is great for such a small shell with 8layers pasted and only blackpowder as the breakcharge.
greets,
paul
ps: Here?s the video of my poor spiderweb shell. There were more sparks but anyway it looks weird
http://www.kkpaul.rp...derweb_poor.wmv
Edited by paul, 06 March 2005 - 09:43 PM.
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