1569 replies to this topic

[completebeginner]

for the barrier between the visco and h3 I will use a dab of hot glue on the end of the core because the rest of the fuse is safe with kclo3 right? I have tested my lift on many 1.5 inch cylindrical shells and they didn't need any prime to ignite on the cylindrical shells. I already have the stars rolled and everything is set up so I guess I'll just make some tiger tails and stick to those after I launch this shell. And my former for the hemis is a tennis ball. And I always thought that color comps with chlorate were safe if the proper precautions are taken to not have them come into contact with those it is incompatble with..

[karlfoxman]

for the barrier between the visco and h3 I will use a dab of hot glue on the end of the core because the rest of the fuse is safe with kclo3 right? I have tested my lift on many 1.5 inch cylindrical shells and they didn't need any prime to ignite on the cylindrical shells. I already have the stars rolled and everything is set up so I guess I'll just make some tiger tails and stick to those after I launch this shell. And my former for the hemis is a tennis ball. And I always thought that color comps with chlorate were safe if the proper precautions are taken to not have them come into contact with those it is incompatble with..

When using visco for a time delay the visco will need to be encased in something because it burns through the coating. If you want the chances of a shell coming back down then dont prime. Trust me prime your fuse or it will most likely go up unlit. The problem with chlorate is not just the firework they go in, imagine a chlorate particle taken by the air and dumped into a large pile of BP based burst....the rest i dont have to say. Its the facilty your working in, its just not worth the risk. Stick with BP unless you know exactly hat your doing and have the the set-up to suit. Best of luck and please play safe these are energetic materials!!

[completebeginner]

Ok thanks for the advice karl and to protect the fuse from the burst I wrapped some tape around it and my shell is almost done the paper mache just has to dry I'll post a video on christmas

[karlfoxman]

Ok thanks for the advice karl and to protect the fuse from the burst I wrapped some tape around it and my shell is almost done the paper mache just has to dry I'll post a video on christmas

No problem mate, i also will have two shells to show before new year my new improved 125mm Blue peony w/ brockade ring and the 125mm 2 break sun and planets shell (maltese style) Blue planets and tigertail sun!!!

Any questions just ask us!!

Edited by karlfoxman, 24 December 2005 - 12:33 PM.

[paul]

Another idea is to prime the fuse with KNO3/C only. If you use an own milling jar or clean an existing one and the millian media, you should be fine.

So, no barrier is needed at all and you get a superior fire transfer. IF you work clean enough so no sulfur traces are present.

[karlfoxman]

Another idea is to prime the fuse with KNO3/C only. If you use an own milling jar or clean an existing one and the millian media, you should be fine.

So, no barrier is needed at all and you get a superior fire transfer. IF you work clean enough so no sulfur traces are present.

I still would not like to risk it, mine and wazi burst gives amazing results. Its best practice to use a chlorate free working area/lab this way you know that type of accident wont happen.

[completebeginner]

so I got Impacien and set it off last night and it didnt work the shell didnt make it out of the mortar Im guessing that the lift wasnt entirly dry well I have another one for tonight isn't as tight of a fit Im using s free chrisanthemums and the left over h3 after thats all gone its back to bp

[karlfoxman]

so I got Impacien and set it off last night and it didnt work the shell didnt make it out of the mortar Im guessing that the lift wasnt entirly dry well I have another one for tonight isn't as tight of a fit Im using s free chrisanthemums and the left over h3 after thats all gone its back to bp

Oh dear, well lesson learned? How do you prepare your lift? Good to hear the H3 is gone, please please clean every work area of kclo3. Accidents happen! Good luck with it, how well does chrysanthemum work with no sulpur?

[completebeginner]

yes I learnt my lesson and yes the h3 is gone and my lift is prepaed by pushing dampened bp with dextrin through a screen and the chrysanthemums are a bit faster burning without the sulfur but still ignite easily I'm going to do a majour clean up after christmas when me and my dad start building a press

[rooster]

Found some old pictures of a small display I made some time ago. Hope it is okay that I post all the pics and vids here, even though there are like 2 mines inbetween the shells.

Some 3" RAP(Rapid Assembly Plastic) spherical shells. They are pasted over with one layer of kraft, to get a better and more symmetrical break. I use a 2g 70/30 flash bag and BP coated puffed rice for burst.

3 3" shells

D1 glitter shells:

#1

#2

FISH glitter shell:

FISH

Trying out a 3" granite falling leaves mine:

Granite falling leaves mine

I think this is a 3" canister TT shell, tight spiked, as you can see by the (low) break:

TT

A bit bad filming of an extremely fast 3" chrysantemum 6 RAP shell:

Chrysantemum 6

There are some more videos/pictures of stuff there too, feel free to download it. Some of them are nice. The clicking sound in the background of the vids are a camera taking pics, btw.

Tell me what you think!

Edited by rooster, 24 December 2005 - 10:18 PM.

[ProfHawking]

Those D1 glitters were splendid! I can only aspire to have as much success. not tried a glitter yet but hope it would look like that.
The chrysanth 6 shell looked good, but bigger/slower starts would have helped.
Amazing stuff!

[completebeginner]

wow those were amazing what kind of charcoal are you using for your tts?

[karlfoxman]

wow those were amazing what kind of charcoal are you using for your tts?

The best charcoal to use i find is pine, i use it for most bp based stars. Works a treat!

[completebeginner]

pine is a protected tree around here so thats out of the question mine use alder since I have so much of it around but it isnt very sparky

[rooster]

I use pine BP for all my stars. Gives nice tails I think. Haven't experimented too much with different spark producing charcoals, since I am happy with my pine... Have 6 more shells coming up for new years eve, including one red smoke shell. The effect will be drooping weeping willow red smoke stars. Need to get that shell really high up, since the stars have such long burntime.

BTW, I think that the difference between D1 glitter and FISH glitter is really well illustarted here. Whereas D1 glitter is very golden, the FISH glitter is more silvery(than the D1, but not silver glitter).

Edited by rooster, 25 December 2005 - 12:56 AM.