Cylindrical Shells
#1096
Posted 02 May 2007 - 01:54 PM
#1097
Posted 05 May 2007 - 10:24 PM
On another note, I had a test of a 4" beraq shell today. Inside was 16 1" ID beraq all made by hand like the maltese do. Only difference is I make the hole before filling. But my results prove it works ok, could be made better but im pleased. I was not aiming for a circular break like the maltese shell, this was just to test the beraq. Im going to make some larger more complex beraq shells with 2 and ring seperate rings. Here are some pictures and the test video.
VIDEO
Very sorry about the state of the lens, I did not clean it up and the camera wanted to focus on it all the time
PICS (CONSTRUCTION) http://www.pyrosocie.......26&st=1050#
Cheers
#1098
Posted 06 May 2007 - 07:53 PM
I had never seen hummers which flew in spirally trajectory, only fast disappeared and humming sound.
How can I make really bees??? Like this:
video.
http://www.hanabi.co...vtr/ginbati.mpg
http://www.hanabi.co...ata/ginhati.mpg
pic.
http://www.srs.ne.jp...abi/Hanabi1.jpg
http://www.hanabi.ne...wa/DSCN0942.JPG
Please, help me. Bye.
Edited by KarlosH, 06 May 2007 - 08:32 PM.
#1099
Posted 06 May 2007 - 10:39 PM
I've seen some shells with rising comet made in an Italian owned factory in China that had the comet fixed under the outer wrap, presumably with a tap off the match to ensure ignition. I'll undo the odd knot and report back with the exact construction next time I;m down the 1.1 store.Only just seen your question, I belive they are just placed ontop like a normal shell. But if its a tight fit you may not have enough lift gas to light the prime. In this case the leader could be passed over the comet. I have not seen many cylindrical shells with comets.
On another note, I had a test of a 4" beraq shell today. Inside was 16 1" ID beraq all made by hand like the maltese do. Only difference is I make the hole before filling. But my results prove it works ok, could be made better but im pleased. I was not aiming for a circular break like the maltese shell, this was just to test the beraq. Im going to make some larger more complex beraq shells with 2 and ring seperate rings. Here are some pictures and the test video.
VIDEO
Very sorry about the state of the lens, I did not clean it up and the camera wanted to focus on it all the time
PICS (CONSTRUCTION) http://www.pyrosocie.......26&st=1050#
Cheers
#1100
Posted 10 May 2007 - 03:41 PM
#1101
Posted 10 May 2007 - 08:39 PM
i am makeing a 3" cylindrical shell at the weekend and i was wondering what is the optimum size for the canule,and will i need to add whistle burst to aid the break,
regards,
Vince.
#1102
Posted 10 May 2007 - 09:19 PM
From Passfire, the canulle for a 3" cylinder should be 3/4" to 1" diameter.i am makeing a 3" cylindrical shell at the weekend and i was wondering what is the optimum size for the canule,and will i need to add whistle burst to aid the break,
If you have enough hot granulated BP to fill the shell, it should work well alone. If you're using BP on rice hulls / corn cob, maybe add about 1/8th of the burst mass in whistle for ball shells - eg 50g of 4:1 BP on hulls burst with 6g whistle booster. This is probably similar for can shells, though I haven't tried it yet. Even better would be to work with KP on hulls - this is almost 'dial-a-yield' - the stronger the case the bigger the bang... my next project...
Edited by BrightStar, 11 May 2007 - 09:50 PM.
#1103
Posted 11 May 2007 - 08:44 PM
Thanks Brightstar,From Passfire, the canulle for a 3" cylinder should be 3/4" to 1" diameter.
If you have enough hot granulated BP / pulverone to fill the shell, it should work well alone. If you're using BP on rice hulls / corn cob, maybe add about 1/8th of the burst mass in whistle for ball shells - eg 50g of 4:1 BP on hulls burst with 6g whistle booster. This is probably similar for can shells, though I haven't tried it yet. Even better would be to work with KP on hulls - this is almost 'dial-a-yield' - the stronger the case the bigger the bang... my next project...
I shall be filling the shell with chrysanthenum 6 stars with 6% 50-50 homemade magnalium added,when i tested them tonight they have a good hang time and seem to crackle and sizzle as they go.
Vince.
#1104
Posted 13 May 2007 - 02:49 PM
Any comments would be welcomed.
#1105
Posted 13 May 2007 - 03:35 PM
It had a very good break, i like it
#1106
Posted 13 May 2007 - 03:43 PM
#1107
Posted 13 May 2007 - 03:47 PM
Any coments would be appreciated
#1108
Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:27 PM
I used BBQ lumpwood for the stars as it's slower than willow.That was a very good shell specially for your first try what charcoal did you use for the stars they seemed to have good orange tails?
That was a nice shell maxman, a good break and nice stars, I've some Winokur 20 stars drying now, can't wait to try them. Hope mine look as good as yours.
#1109
Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:34 PM
Nice shell maxman those gold glitters look well better than the ones iv made...pine/bbq charcoal or willow???
#1110
Posted 13 May 2007 - 04:48 PM
Make sure you get lumpwood and not briquettes as they are made up with sawdust and clay.Have been planning on trying bbq charcoal in place of pine for ages i will buy some next time im at the petrol station nice one for letting me know.
Nice shell maxman those gold glitters look well better than the ones iv made...pine/bbq charcoal or willow???
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