1569 replies to this topic

[The_Djinn]

Jerronimo,
After watching the video I was tempted to move the posts to new section called MINES

May have been a dissapointing shell, but was a brilliant mine
Had it got into the air, it would have been a great shell as well.. maybe you should do 2 versions.. one with lift and the other without.
Mark

Edited by The_Djinn, 26 September 2004 - 12:18 PM.

[Kembang Api]

Hi Phoenix, Shorter lift cup does make a bit of different and less level of bang sound, if you know what I mean. The trajectory speed increase, which causing a longer distance of travel. In my 3 inches shell I could reduce the amount of lift charge by 2 to 4 grams. This is just my finding.

Jerronimo: I used to do that! but I had change my BP since BigG explain the need of ball milling for a longer period. Since than all my meal powder are passing mesh 275 to 300. Press the Bp and granulate it will give you a higher lift and consistant result.

Plastic shell is new to me, I had never try it before. All my shell are made of paper and all are pasted with kraft paper.

[Jerronimo]

May have been a dissapointing shell, but was a brilliant mine

Hahahahaha yes you could look at it that way.

With no lift the mortar probably wouldn't survive, it exploded just when exiting the tube and blew some pieces of the outlet of the mortar.

If somebody is able to suply me with some timefuse I would be realy thankfull, alltough the visco that paul mentioned will probably work, I would like to stick to the tried and tested method.

Spolettes work perfect when rammed right and when you make small quantities of shells.
But I'm planning on giving a show at newyears eve, and thinking about launching 20+ shells so some timefuse would realy come in handy.

Edited by Jerronimo, 26 September 2004 - 01:39 PM.

[sasman]

Flippin Eck!!! Bet that made you Jump!! Those stars looked nice ..Keep them Videos coming....

[Jerronimo]

Yes, it sure did.

As for the stars I'm glad you like them.

It's a formula of my own, and it's so simple.
Maybe I will post it in the starformulas tread.

[skipjack]

as this thread somehow advanced to the "shell-showroom", i might aswell share my latest video with you.

its only a 1,5" spherical-shell but i was quite pleased with the result.
1,5"-firedust-video

payload: 7mm Firedust-stars
burst: BP on ricehulls + 1,5 g of flash added
weight: ~60g

the shell-hemispheres were made on the core of a golfball, later pasted with kraftpaper.

[paul]

For an 1.5" ball shell this looks quite nice! The stars have a nice tail and the break is powerful...

Edited by paul, 14 October 2004 - 10:51 AM.

[Pretty green flames]

Wow
very nice
Good job Skipjack.

Well i cant say the same for me.
Yesterday i tested some of my shells and roman candles.
Roman candles were pretty.

as for my mortars. I just got a big volcano .

Edited by Pretty green flames, 14 October 2004 - 12:48 PM.

[adamw]

Remember. Mortars are the things that shells come out of. Don't confuse them for the actual shell its self.


The video - very nice indeed. I myself would have been proud.

[BurlHorse]

Yugen-biki you are right about making the shell stronger .this is part of the shell that landed a a few feet away from me .Shell Half and Shell half 2 ..its plain to see that i didnt glue the shell halves together properly...From now on i will clamp the shell halves together and wait until i cant dent the seam with my finger nail as burlhorse said.. i only let the glue dry for 1 day.. Read Below My Friend.......
Also Does this mean only half of my stars were ignited? i have counted 73 lit stars and i put in at least 120? to 130 ..The shell half is totally intact so i am amazed the break looked ok?  I have also worked out the height of the Burst..
Usually When They Break Like that in two whole Halves, only half of the stars do ignite, they seem to just tumble from the other shell half, I've done it too   

..Using Adobe Premier to count the frames of the video i got the following
1.  Flash of shell to Bang! 18 frames
2 Flash of the mortar to the Bang 8 frames
  So if speed of sound travels at 1100 feet pers sec... there are 25 frames per second so 1100/25= 44 feet per Frame
So 18 frames x 44 Ftpersec = 792 feet distance from Shell to camera
Distance from mortar to camera 8 frames x 44Ftpersec = 352 feet
So height of burst = 792 - 352 = 440 feet high approx?

Does that sound about right? 4" shell should be fired to about 400 to 500 feet?
And italteen3 i am going to order some Fiber glass strapping tape now that i can see its very important to make sure the shell casing is very strong..I had used gummed paper to help strengthen the case ..

3/4 or 1" gummed Tape Works Great, Better than Strapping tape, Your shells look great!!!, the Gummed Tape is the Ticket, 4 Layers is not, more like 8 would be good. On My 6" shells I us 12 Layers, 3 Layers dry 1 Day, three Layers, Dry 1 Day, etc, also write a #1 on the first strip, when you work your way around the shell to that #1, on the next strip that covers it, write #2 on it and so forth, helps keep track of the number of Layers, As I said, The Gummed Tape Has Worked Best for Us, 12 Layers for a 6, 16 Layers for an 8 and 21 Layers for a 10, Thats what I have written down in Mine and Tim's Notes. You can easily rig up a jig to hold a roll of the Tape and Then a small Box Like Deall near the edge of the work table to hold two wet sponges to pull the tape through. Don't be afraid to get that Paper Goood and Wet after it's glued to the shell. Smooth out your wrinkles as you go from layer to layer, don't start another round till the first one is good and tight and wrinkle free, you'll "Know" when you've "Broken" The Kraft paper Fibers in the Gummed Tape because the Paper will all lay down nice and smooth..

So in conclusion, For Plastic Shells (My Opinion and a thousand or so built and fired) When you you flip your shell halves together, dont close the gap completely, leave it open so you can see the plastic, NOT the contents and Use A Good Thick Line of Styrene Glue in the seam before clamping, (Some People Swear By Methelyn Chloride, NOT it just to thin and it's viscosity to high, Use the GLUE.) once around Liberally, let it really soak the seam, then give it another go round and Clamp, You should Have a Contiguous Ripple where the seam is (Was ), if you dont, let the pressure off the clamp and glue again.
[color=red](TIP: A Hardware Pistol Grip Bar Clamp with a a couple of 2.5"x2.5" Pieces of Cardboard Casingsor 3" Salute Cans without the disks (Like you use to hold up your shell haves while loading,) will allow you to not inferfere with the time fuse or Spollette and Will give you a more even pressure on the shell halves. Then let that baby sit somewhere to dry for a week, then start to Pasting.) Your Total Build Time for a quality shell may only be 1 hr, but your drying time for that Same quality shell is at least 10 days, any less and you are shortchanging yourself.

[color=purple] Your Mileage may Vary But I know the Break you seek and with 10 or 12 layers without changing what break charge you've described, you will get it!! Personally I'd Say Your Very Ready To Get on with the 6"ers( though only you know your abilities, trust them not my encouragement.)), So Get After it!!

[COLOR=green]On The Note of My Partner, Mr. Timothy Wellman, He Was Deployed from the Virginia National Guard to Afganistan last Friday for a one year tour, Please Pray for him, I think Our Talks Prepared Him Mentally, Besides, He's The Banger, He'll have something for 'ol Bin S**thead....... Your Loved Ones and Troops Will Be in My Prayers as well. Thanks,

Stay Green,[/]COLOR

Bear

[italteen3]

3/4 or 1" gummed Tape Works Great, Better than Strapping tape, Your shells look great!!!, the Gummed Tape is the Ticket, 4 Layers is not, more like 8 would be good. On My 6" shells I us 12 Layers, 3 Layers dry 1 Day, three Layers, Dry 1 Day, etc, also write a #1 on the first strip, when you work your way around the shell to that #1, on the next strip that covers it, write #2 on it and so forth, helps keep track of the number of Layers, As I said, The Gummed Tape Has Worked Best for Us, 12 Layers for a 6, 16 Layers for an 8 and 21 Layers for a 10, Thats what I have written down in Mine and Tim's Notes. You can easily rig up a jig to hold a roll of the Tape and Then a small Box Like Deall near the edge of the work table to hold two wet sponges to pull the tape through. Don't be afraid to get that Paper Goood and Wet after it's glued to the shell. Smooth out your wrinkles as you go from layer to layer, don't start another round till the first one is good and tight and wrinkle free, you'll "Know" when you've "Broken" The Kraft paper Fibers in the Gummed Tape because the Paper will all lay down nice and smooth..

So in conclusion,   For Plastic Shells (My Opinion and a thousand or so built and fired) When you you flip your shell halves together, dont close the gap completely, leave it open so you can see the plastic, NOT the contents and Use A Good Thick Line of Styrene Glue in the seam before clamping, (Some People Swear By Methelyn Chloride,  NOT  it just to thin and it's viscosity to high, Use the GLUE.) once around Liberally, let it really soak the seam, then give it another go round and Clamp, You should Have a Contiguous Ripple where the seam is (Was ), if you dont, let the pressure off the clamp and glue again.
[color=red](TIP: A Hardware Pistol Grip Bar Clamp with a a couple of 2.5"x2.5" Pieces of Cardboard Casingsor 3" Salute Cans without the disks (Like you use to hold up your shell haves while loading,) will allow you to not inferfere with the time fuse or Spollette and Will give you a more even pressure on the shell halves. Then let that baby sit somewhere to dry for a week, then start to Pasting.) Your Total Build Time for a quality shell may only be 1 hr, but your drying time for that Same quality shell is at least 10 days, any less and you are shortchanging yourself.

[color=purple] Your Mileage may Vary But I know the Break you seek and with 10 or 12 layers without changing what break charge you've described, you will get it!! Personally I'd Say Your Very Ready To Get on with the 6"ers( though only you know your abilities, trust them not my encouragement.)), So Get After it!!

[COLOR=green]On The Note of My Partner, Mr. Timothy Wellman, He Was Deployed from the Virginia National Guard to Afganistan last Friday for a one year tour, Please Pray for him, I think Our Talks Prepared Him Mentally, Besides, He's The Banger, He'll have something for 'ol Bin S**thead....... Your Loved Ones and Troops Will Be in My Prayers as well. Thanks,

Stay Green,[/]COLOR

Bear

WOW. Nice post Burl I will copy paste that if you dont mind . You dont happen to have any videos of some of your shells do you? Also just wondering if you have tried any of my ideas for shells? Have a good one Burl and my prayers are with all Soldiers, guards, etc. domestic and across the globe

[paul]

Hello and good morning. I am on holidays, so I have time now to make and fire some effects :D

Yesterday evening we shot this 3" shell:

http://www.kkpaul.rp...ischstern_3.jpg
http://www.kkpaul.rp...ischstern_4.jpg

As you can hear in the video it was very windy. The willowstars burned too "dark" but the silvertails worked. Altogether it was a poor effect, because the break was only a blackpower break.

But here it is:

Video - 3" Half willow half silvertails

EDIT: Hm the break seemed to be quite good only the mixed stars made the break look so poor.



What?s your opinion?!

Edited by paul, 22 October 2004 - 10:41 AM.

[Creepin_pyro]

Very nice!

Looks like you had some metal in the spollette?

The silvertails had a god hang time, looked as if some stars were lit with a delay

I think the break was fine - I think the more gently break suits silver tailed stars.

Keep up the good work

[paul]

Ah thanks. It was not a spoolette Was a comet glued to the shell...

Here?s a picture of that

Comet glued to shell

As i can remember, it was Oglesby?s "Better pearl" formula.

[Creepin_pyro]

Aah, I didn't think you would've hidden it there

Looks very neat.... is there any particular reason you attach the comet around the time fuse?

I know aerolights use this method, but I've always glued mine on top.