1lb Rockets keep CATOing
#16
Posted 26 January 2007 - 01:41 PM
I use meal and pine charcoal 80/20 for my 4oz core burners
#17
Posted 26 January 2007 - 04:47 PM
It's also interesting that Estes also use approx. 13% S in their BP motors...
Edited by BrightStar, 26 January 2007 - 06:10 PM.
#18
Posted 27 January 2007 - 08:25 AM
Here is the formula I use now:
kno3 62%
sulfur 10%
------- all hardwood charcoal ----
30-40 mesh 4%
40-60 mesh 5%
60-100 mesh 4%
airfloat 15%
#19
Posted 28 January 2007 - 06:50 PM
So, KNO3 - 63.5, Sulphur - 13.3, Willow charcoal - 23.2, milled for 60 mins and rammed HARD. The tube was ordinary - 3.5mm wall 3/4" id parallel wound. The nozzle mix 10 parts rough ground cheap kitty litter (quite sandy), 10 parts premium milled bentonite, 1 part candle wax dissolved in excess Coleman fuel (purified gasoline), 2 parts fine graphite. The tooling was from pyrotooling.com, ignition via 1/16 visco bent over at the end to hold it in place and placed 1" into the grain.
The business end:
Ready to fly (no header):
Vanishing into the sky:
1lb launch video (divx, 933 KB)
This was actually the second attempt, first time round I cracked the grain while ramming. Powder would fall out of the open end every time it was tapped. I fused it with visquick right up into the core for quick ignition (pictured above) and sure enough there was a VERY loud cato. At least I recovered the stick...
1lb cato video (divx, 747 KB)
This fuel is certainly very powerful and easy to make. I still like the idea of high-sulphur fuel for consistency between batches. The hardwood mixes are cheaper for me though... On with the experiments
Edited by BrightStar, 30 January 2007 - 08:08 PM.
#20
Posted 07 February 2007 - 03:22 PM
http://video.google....323031660403032
Edited by Wyvern, 07 February 2007 - 03:41 PM.
#21
Posted 11 July 2007 - 10:54 PM
I used cheap and simple fuel - 63:27:10 with garden hardwood charcoal chips, milled for 2 hours, dampened and granulated with water/IPA mix (no binder) then dried to avoid dust. The tubes were ordinary quality 3.5mm wall, not up to NEPT quality but good enough. Tooling was from pyrotooling.com.
A few lessons on reliability learnt (most of which we already knew):
1) Nozzle length: Just use about 1.3 level tsp (teaspoon) of clay nozzle mix. This gives a nozzle length of ~1cm at it shortest point, ~2cm at the outer radius. 2 tsp or more is too much and invites failure of the tube.
2) Ram hard in increments of 1 tsp with 5 blows with a big mallet. 2 tsp is often too much. Note that this is much less than the recommended limit of 1 * id in length. Interestingly, this seems much more important than the actual fuel mix used.
3) Tap your drifts on a hard surface between increments to clear any lodged composition - you might be surprised at how much falls out...
With this, you are one step closer to a really reliable motor
Now I just have to find some cheaper sticks...
#22
Posted 11 July 2007 - 11:04 PM
Now I just have to find some cheaper sticks...
can't you Just cut up some old wood on a table saw?
#23
Posted 11 July 2007 - 11:11 PM
can't you Just cut up some old wood on a table saw?
LOL Ummm... yes.
The process would be: 1) Spend less time on pyro, 2) Earn more money as a result, 3) Buy bigger house, 4) Build bigger workshop, 5) Buy table saw, 6) Make cheap rocket sticks.
Easily done, but I'm having great difficulty with Step 1)
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