10 replies to this topic

[Zinginex]

Hi. The weekends come and i've ran out of KNO3. Just wondering what i can do with sodium chlorate, charcoal and potassium chlorate. Do chlorates and charcoal burn quicker than KNO3 and charcoal? And what ratios should i use for the composition?
Thanks

Edited by Zinginex, 03 February 2007 - 10:06 AM.

[Anders Greenman]

If you mix Potassium Chlorate and charcoal in the ratio 10:3, you'l have a very fast burning and powerful burst charge named H3. It cannot be used as anything else than break or maybe fast burning fuse.
It might be possible to give it a bit more charcoal to slow the burn rate, but i've never heard of anyone trying this.

[Zinginex]

Oh ok thanks very much.

If you mix Potassium Chlorate and charcoal in the ratio 10:3, you'l have a very fast burning and powerful burst charge named H3. It cannot be used as anything else than break or maybe fast burning fuse.
It might be possible to give it a bit more charcoal to slow the burn rate, but i've never heard of anyone trying this.

Thanks. Is this composition sensative too friction or static elctricity or is it fine to be mixing outside in an open container?

[Electron]

H3 is probably the least sensitive chlorate composition, sensitive to friction and shock that is (I have tried hitting small samples very hard with a mallet hammer with no ignition, deflagration or explosion. I have also tried igniting it via friction and failed). My personal tests do not mean you should trust the information i have given - be careful.

It is however very sensitive to heat, flame, and sparks. I have never tested it with respect to static electricity, you should consider that it would be enough to ignite H3. I agree with Anders about H3' uses, and i know from personal experience that it does make good fuse. However, if you do make fuse with H3 you need to be cautious about the compositions/chemicals that it comes into contact with. If your not sure then look on the forum and elsewhere regarding chlorates.

Mixing of H3 is safer than other chlorate compositions, but you should never grind or mill it, i mix it by shaking it in a plastic pot with a snap on lid. Shaking is done gently and the pot is allowed to rest a few minutes before opening otherwise you get a cloud of dust which is very undesirable.

[Zinginex]

H3 is probably the least sensitive chlorate composition, sensitive to friction and shock that is (I have tried hitting small samples very hard with a mallet hammer with no ignition, deflagration or explosion. I have also tried igniting it via friction and failed). My personal tests do not mean you should trust the information i have given - be careful.

It is however very sensitive to heat, flame, and sparks. I have never tested it with respect to static electricity, you should consider that it would be enough to ignite H3. I agree with Anders about H3' uses, and i know from personal experience that it does make good fuse. However, if you do make fuse with H3 you need to be cautious about the compositions/chemicals that it comes into contact with. If your not sure then look on the forum and elsewhere regarding chlorates.

Mixing of H3 is safer than other chlorate compositions, but you should never grind or mill it, i mix it by shaking it in a plastic pot with a snap on lid. Shaking is done gently and the pot is allowed to rest a few minutes before opening otherwise you get a cloud of dust which is very undesirable.

Oh Ok thanks very much i'll probably make some fuse with it then. Is it good for dissolving it in water and soaking string in it for fuse? or sticky match? And yeah i know not to add sulfur to chlorates.
Thanks

[Mumbles]

Chlorates are rather insoluble. However this is desireable, as very little leeching will occur. However, I don't think this is what you mean by "dissolve". You want the binder to be what is holding the composition on the string, not the chemicals themselves

Also on the list of not to add to is Ammonium compounds.

[Zinginex]

Chlorates are rather insoluble. However this is desireable, as very little leeching will occur. However, I don't think this is what you mean by "dissolve". You want the binder to be what is holding the composition on the string, not the chemicals themselves

Also on the list of not to add to is Ammonium compounds.

Oh yeah sorry didn't mean it dissolve. Thanks for correcting that. Ok i don't have any Ammonium compounds anyway. Sorry but what do you mean by leeching?

[Anders Greenman]

He means that no (in this case, chlorate) chemicals will dissolve in the water and disappear with it. If they do, it will burn more unstable or maybe not at all. And chlorate/charcoal fuse burns about three times quicker than the original black powder version so use it with care.

[Zinginex]

He means that no (in this case, chlorate) chemicals will dissolve in the water and disappear with it. If they do, it will burn more unstable or maybe not at all. And chlorate/charcoal fuse burns about three times quicker than the original black powder version so use it with care.

Ah ok thanks for explaining that. I probably won't make fuse with it as i don't have much Potassium Chlorate but maybe.
Thanks

[fishy1]

Chlorates are rather insoluble. However this is desireable, as very little leeching will occur. However, I don't think this is what you mean by "dissolve". You want the binder to be what is holding the composition on the string, not the chemicals themselves

Also on the list of not to add to is Ammonium compounds.

Not all chlorates are "rather insoluble". KCl03 is reasonably, but NaClO3 certainly is NOT. (101g per 100ml water at 20C)

[Mumbles]

I was speaking of the potassium salts. I am aware than the sodium salts are rather soluble.

Leeching generally means crystalizing out. The soluble product, in this case the chlorate, dissolving and slowly crystalizing on the outside of the granules or fuse, or stars, or whatever. This is rather common with nitrate based comps when they are over wet. White crystals will appear on the surface.