153 replies to this topic

[dfk]

After your Kno3 saturated charcoal and sulfur meal dries, try throwing it in your mill for some FAST BP, I mill in a slury which gives the same effect. Very noticeable difference.


Sounds good, Gold has a very low electrical resistance which might easaly distribute any unevenly charged spots.

Edited by dfk, 28 April 2004 - 05:41 AM.

[Patrick]

Hello,

Have a question regarding charcoal making. Would it work to use green wood to make charcoal or does it have to be dried?

Thanks,

Patrick

[The_Djinn]

You can use green wood as the charcoal making process removes all the moisture from the wood. If you use dry wood to start the process is shorter due to the fact that there is less moisture to remove than if you use green wood.
Best is to cut your green wood and leave it ouside somewhere sheltered for a few weeks before cooking it to make charcoal.

Mark

[Greg T]

Afternoon!

Yesterday evening I had a stroll in the local woodland in the search for willow and pine trees.

Having found them quite quickly, I came across some dead branches both on the floor and still attached to the tree.

Before I start cutting off the healthy looking branches, can someone tell me whether the dead stuff would work just as well for making charcoal (which will eventually be used for BP and inserted into rockets and fountains - not quite up to shells yet).


One other thing:

It seems, from what I've read, that the precipitation method for making BP is far far safer than loading up a ball mill with the necessary materials and milling for a few hours.

However, I can't find anything in the forum that suggest which of the two methods is better for creating the best BP. Any advice?


Thanks,

Greg

[Creepin_pyro]

Before I start cutting off the healthy looking branches, can someone tell me whether the dead stuff would work just as well for making charcoal

However, I can't find anything in the forum that suggest which of the two methods is better for creating the best BP. Any advice?

Dead or rotton? I would assume that dead wood would work fine, although I've never tried.

It is widely accepted that ball milling produces the "best" powder, however it is more dangerous than the CIA method. I think the CIA method is perfect for fountains and the like, but will not be great for creating lift. If you're not worried about lift, don't worry about the ball milling.

[Rip Rap]

It seems, from what I've read, that the precipitation method for making BP is far far safer than loading up a ball mill with the necessary materials and milling for a few hours.
However, I can't find anything in the forum that suggest which of the two methods is better for creating the best BP. Any advice?

The CIA method of manufacturing BP can produce powder that surpasses the performance of commercial BP.

As for which method creates the best BP - if by using either method, you can equal comercial BP, then only safety is the overriding factor.

I have never made BP by ball milling, because from a safety point, I dont have what I consider, adequate safe distances to do so. But I also have never needed to! (Although I do use a ball mill in the process). The way I see it, if you can produce a powder, that is at least equal to commercial BP & you don't have the safe amount of space required to ball mill, apart from being irresponsible, why do so? What is the point, when you have something as good, or better than the "real" stuff!
This is not to say that the CIA method is "safe". Just IMO a safer method. Unless you have 5 acres of empty field & a very long extension lead (because the CIA method does not employ 100 lead balls, mixed with BP in a confined space).

Ian Van Maltitz' book "Black Powder Manufacturing Methods & Techniques" is where I took my inspiration for BP manufacture. I ball mill willow charcoal & sulpher together, use extremely cold alcohol, press & granulate. This at least equals & invariably surpasses the commercial BP I also use.

Before I start cutting off the healthy looking branches, can someone tell me whether the dead stuff would work just as well for making charcoal (which will eventually be used for BP and inserted into rockets and fountains - not quite up to shells yet).

The quality of charcoal you use is critical for making good BP. Use willow, alder or similar. Strip off the bark & ensure your process for making charcoal, does indeed make charcoal & not baked or half burnt wood! I have used both green & dried-out willow to make charcoal & not noticed any difference in the final product, just shorter "cooking" time with the dried stuff.

[paul]

Of course you can do that, but then you only mix the chemicals together. That would be green meal then.

You have to incorperate the chemicals into each other. For that purpose you can soak the saltpetre into the charcoal/sulphur (cia method). But you need your charcoal/sulpur mix in a very fine mix. And to get it into a such fine powder you need a ball mill

[Greg T]

Thanks Creepin pyro and Rip Rap for your advice.

I will let you know how I progress!

[Pretty green flames]

HI

Is the formula for BP really this
1
75:15:10
KNO3:C:S
In this formula i always get liquid Sulfur when it burns and it's burning is quite
slow.

Now i tried this one
60:20:20
KNO3:C:S

It's burning is very fast and there's nothing left when it burns off.

What could i have possible made wrong in the first formula for BP.
I'm using BBQ charcoal. Could this be the reason for slow burning.

Thnx
LP PGF

[Richard H]

Search the forum, in fact search this thread! The secret is the charcoal and the degree of intimate mixing.

[paul]

Holly sh** this shop is soooo expensive. For normal you won?t EVER need this pure chemicals for pyro uses.

Every other shop I?ve seen so far was cheaper

The KClO4 is !only! technical grade. They want to have ?65.00 for 500g.....

Edited by paul, 02 October 2004 - 02:31 PM.

[Richard H]

I wouldn't touch these rip-off merchants with the worlds longest barge pole.

[Jerronimo]

Yes but they do sell PIC fuse, haven't seen that anywhere else.

I ordered 5 metres and are planning to use it as timefuse for my arial shells.