153 replies to this topic

[BurlHorse]

OK, thats it, Digital Camera in hand this weekend, I will build a third ball Mill, step by step and post all pertinant info....May not be do-able over there, but everything i use I get from E-bay, so stay tuned and lets get this whole "How to reduce particle Size thing Done and over with, No, I do not think I am right about everything, I'm just gonna post it outta brotherhood before some one does loose something they'd rather not......

Regards, Stay green

Bear

[Stuart]

And if that doesn't work, use the design on my pictures site in the temp directory. It is a hell of a lot simpler and easier to build and preforms just as well as any other design.

Burlhorse, in the battle field effect thread, during our...disagreement shall we say, you stated that it was unsafe. I was wondering if you could clear that you with me please?

Stuart

[Creepin_pyro]

The sellers account was probably cancelled due to his demise at shaking a comp....  The method you are describing sounds like russian roullette with a hand grenade, nicely loaded with 22 size fragments, c'mon dude.

I only ever use technical/lab? grade Potassium Nitrate. I've never been bothered buying fertiliser grade anything - too much fire retardent/contaminates.

Are you assuming that the mix would be set off by heat built up?. I really appreciate the safety "advice", although I think your soapbox could do with some precision filing/sanding.

I couldn't see too much difference between a ball mill, and my shaker, which are both supposed to be operated remotely, except I would expect the media in the shaker to heat up quicker due to the increased kinetic energy. I shook mine on the other side of a brick wall. I wouldn't go around shaking containers with >30g BP in my bare hands, even with no media inside and the purest ingredients - I ain't stupid.

I actually used to own a large rock tumbler before I knew anything about pyro, but managed to break it tumbling some malachite, if I remember correctly. Such a waste. Does leave me with some nice tumbling containers for when I make my ball mill.

Bear..... do you post on the German pyro forum?

[Rhodri]

So you are obviously a geologist then? Malachite (a form of Copper Carbonate Hydroxide et al)

Why are you tumbling this?

Edited by Rhodri, 11 March 2004 - 08:39 PM.

[Creepin_pyro]

I have studied geology, and briefly worked for the BGS, but I wouldn't call myself a geologist. Tumblers are used for polishing rocks...... no particular reason for polishing malachite.

[Rhodri]

I see. I was just wondering whether you'd found any use for Malachite in pyro!

A secret additive or something!

[BurlHorse]

And if that doesn't work, use the design on my pictures site in the temp directory. It is a hell of a lot simpler and easier to build and preforms just as well as any other design.

Burlhorse, in the battle field effect thread, during our...disagreement shall we say, you stated that it was unsafe. I was wondering if you could clear that you with me please?

Stuart

I already gave a lecture on the term Safety, Get this through your head, as nicely as I can put it. In dealing with all energetic materials, there are only degrees of safer "than", not an all encompassing I am Safe because I do everything "SAFE". Forget the ball mill, I already told you it was a simple and slick design for the drive nut. What it's attached to however....Well I digress and I'm not going to start this flame a thon up again.

I'll not get into it with you Stuart, as I see your post to be a little bit askew from the topic and poking me may not get you the results you thought.... Build your ball mills however YOU like, I will and yours is admittedly a Big step up from the Hand grenade methodology, Hats off to you.

Stay Green Brother,

Bear

[BurlHorse]

I only ever use technical/lab? grade Potassium Nitrate.  I've never been bothered buying fertiliser grade anything - too much fire retardent/contaminates.

Are you assuming that the mix would be set off by heat built up?.  I really appreciate the safety "advice", although I think your soapbox could do with some precision filing/sanding.

I couldn't see too much difference between a ball mill, and my shaker, which are both supposed to be operated remotely, except I would expect the media in the shaker to heat up quicker due to the increased kinetic energy.  I shook mine on the other side of a brick wall.  I wouldn't go around shaking containers with >30g BP in my bare hands, even with no media inside and the purest ingredients  -  I ain't stupid.

I actually used to own a large rock tumbler before I knew anything about pyro, but managed to break it tumbling some malachite, if I remember correctly.  Such a waste.  Does leave me with some nice tumbling containers for when I make my ball mill.

Bear..... do you post on the German pyro forum?

No, Don't even know of a german Pyro board, But I'll Gladly fly my my newly revamped Mach 17 Soapbox right on over there if you like........

Regards,

Stay Green,

Bear

[adamw]

<out of breath> Right, just rushed back with your pescription Burl.. Now take two of these with a glass of water.

[willd]

just wondering burl but having used wiper moters for other things ive found that theyre whater proof well most seem to be anyway would this make it safe to use or would u still say it was too dangerous to bother with as i doubt if the moter was waterproof it would be possible to get sufficient blackpowder in the moter to ignite. i just thought id ask out of interest.

[adamw]

How did you manage to say all of that in one breath? Please use some grammar next time. You know, like commas and full stops...

[willd]

ok, sorry about that.

(Punctuation added by The_Djinn)

Edited by The_Djinn, 30 March 2004 - 12:35 PM.

[ash]

Ive had 2 attempts at making just your bog standard BP (75% KNO3, 15% C and 10% S). The charcoal was from an art store, I didnt want the hassle of finding a willow tree so I bought willow charcoal sticks (anyone else tried using this?).

The first attempt I ground the chemicals individually in a pestle and mortar (I was only trying to make 2 grams) then mixed them by placing them on all on a bit of paper and folding the corners over and over (boring I know but I dont have a ball mill). This didnt work at all, wouldnt light with a match or a blue flamed lighter

The second attempt (this time I tried to make about a gram) I mixed the chemicals by placing in a stoppered boiling tube and shaking for 5 mins then adding 3 small lead weights and "tumbling" it in my hands for about 10 mins. This didnt work either, when I put a match to it it did nothing for the first 10 or so secs then Id get a very small puff of smoke where a very small quantity had ignited but the rest hadnt.

Am I going to have to make a ball mill to mix the chemicals more thoroughly (Id rather not since I only want to make very small batches - only a few grams at a time) or am I doing something stupid here? Any help is appreciated.

Edited by ash, 30 March 2004 - 07:09 PM.

[dfk]

Without knowing the quality of your chems or much about your procedures I can say the quantity of BP you are trying to make can cause many problems.
It would take a scale accurate to 1/100 of a gram to get the percentages right.

If you are using a scale accurate to 1/10 of a gram to weigh 1 g, you could throw the %'s off by as much as 10% because of the guessing involved.

So spare some cash, use your chems, be wild and try making a 10 g batch. If it comes out right it you wouldn't have to make more for a few days.

Seriously though, if you have your measurements right the stuff should burn after mixing without any milling, its called green mix and has many uses of its own in pyro.

[maxman]

2 grams? how on earth did you measure 75/15/10 accurately? making such a small amount.
Have you got super accurate scales?
Be a devil and make 10 grams ! at least then its 7.5/1.5/1g If you've not got a ball mill grind it with a pestel and mortar. You should be OK with such a small amount but wear rigger gloves and keep it away from your face.