Ball Mills
#601
Posted 02 November 2008 - 07:22 PM
#602
Posted 14 November 2008 - 08:37 PM
I wonder if it's safe to use copper plated leadballs as milling media?
I've read on some pages that copper dont spark, and on other it says that it dose..
#603
Posted 11 December 2008 - 02:25 PM
I make my new ball mill and i have a problem..
the jar is like to "stop and start" when i turn on the machine(with lead media inside 4kg).It does't make a full rotation continuously ..
what goes wrong??Here is the photos of my mill
I moved the wheels close to each other but it is the same..
Edited by pipipi, 11 December 2008 - 02:27 PM.
#604
Posted 11 December 2008 - 03:49 PM
Use another material (no garden hose) for your driver, sth more rubber-like.
Second: That plastics the jar is made of is even worse, regarding grip.
Wrap rubber-like duct tape or sth. around it.
Edit: And please, COVER that open motor
Edited by paul, 11 December 2008 - 03:55 PM.
#605
Posted 11 December 2008 - 04:01 PM
#606
Posted 11 December 2008 - 04:02 PM
The jar looks like it's about 6" in diameter. If so, you want the roller to drive bar spacing to be 4-1/2", measured from the nearest distance from each other- O<-->O.Hi,
I make my new ball mill and i have a problem..
the jar is like to "stop and start" when i turn on the machine(with lead media inside 4kg).It does't make a full rotation continuously ..
what goes wrong??
Taken another way, the angle between the c/l of the jar and both the drive and driven rollers should be 60 degrees. Your mill looks to have more spacing than that.
The drive bar should be "lifting" the jar- so the motor should be rotating counterclockwise, as viewed from the pulley end. This may well be the major problem, as many motors rotate CW rather than CCW.
If there's still slippage, try covering the drive bar with a tight-fitting piece of rubber hose (automotive heater hose is often used), or wrap the jar with "friction tape" (as opposed to, say, electrical tape- which is slippery). Some swear by duct tape.
If the jar's capacity is a gallon, you are undercharged, media-wise. If using lead media, it takes about 30 pounds to fill a 1 gallon jar properly. But whatever the capacity of the jar, the media should occupy 1/2 the jar's volume, the material being processed should be equal to about 1/4 of the jar's volume, i.e. the material should fill all the space between the media PLUS one media diameter more.
Lastly, check the RPM of the jar. A 6” jar with ½" media should run about 73 RPM, 1” media is about 77 RPM.
A 5" diameter jar with 1/2" media is 81 RPM.
EDIT- Sorry for the non-metric measurements.
Edited by spanner, 11 December 2008 - 04:18 PM.
#607
Posted 11 December 2008 - 08:32 PM
I dont know which way it drives now so you may already have that direction in your set up.
Nice jar btw :-) Ballmill looks good too!
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#608
Posted 11 December 2008 - 10:12 PM
#609
Posted 12 December 2008 - 01:17 PM
i will make some modifications and i will inform you again
#610
Posted 14 December 2008 - 06:09 PM
maybe i will put inner tube to the jar too..
#611
Posted 15 December 2008 - 03:37 PM
Too slippery, not enough contact. Thats it. Really
Use another material (no garden hose) for your driver, sth more rubber-like.
Second: That plastics the jar is made of is even worse, regarding grip.
Wrap rubber-like duct tape or sth. around it.
Edit: And please, COVER that open motor
why to cover the moter?maybe will heat more if it covered
#612
Posted 15 December 2008 - 03:58 PM
why to cover the moter?maybe will heat more if it covered
The answer to this is to protect the motor from any explosive dusts that could be ignited by the motor.
This is however open to debate. If you have the mill in a safe area where no powders are mixed or used and the mill jar is opened and closed in a different area then there are only the risks of the jar splitting or the lid screwing off to consider. These risks can obviously be mitigated by jar design and regular checks on the condition of your jar.
#613
Posted 16 December 2008 - 09:50 AM
why to cover the moter?maybe will heat more if it covered
Because you aren´t always aware of what your motor does, eh? There is ALWAYS the risk of
sparks or parts of the motor running hot.
Just seperate your two parts, motor and milling cabinet. Always use the safest possible way.
Sorry, this is in NO way meant arrogant but I would never have asked the why-seperate-the-both-question!
It is YOUR safety there. You´re not playing with 10g of lightly con tained black powder. That jar looks
like you´re gonna make a lot more at once.
So, take that tip and add at least one layer of thick wood between motor and jar, so no powder can directly fall onto/into
the motor.
Mo overheating issues then! I´m using the same design on my mill.
#614
Posted 16 December 2008 - 06:52 PM
thanks!
#615
Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:57 PM
If and when the mill jar wears out and the contents spill on the motor.......
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
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