In my experience, lead doesn't mill aluminium very well at all, and contaminates it very badly. For milling aluminium, the best and most accessible media I have used are stainless steel nuts. You can buy them very cheaply from Screwfix. M12 is a good size, and a pack of 100 would probably do for a small jar.
I found that normal V belts were a bit stiff, and loaded the motor on my ball mill/star roller, slowing it down and wasting power. Instead I use rings of car inner tube, just cut as a 10mm wide band. They don't last as long as a V belt (about a couple of days of continuous running) but this doesn't matter as you get dozens from one inner tube, which I got for free. If you need a longer belt you can cut a strip of the rubber lengthways, then glue or stitch the ends together.
Ball Mills
Started by Stuart, Jul 12 2003 04:57 PM
635 replies to this topic
#211
Phoenix
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Posted 03 January 2005 - 09:52 PM
#212
s2525
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Irish Pyro
Posted 04 January 2005 - 11:03 PM
Ahh ok what about steel balls used in slignshot ammo that would work as well.Hey i was talking to my dad about it and first off my Uncle runs a garage so ill ask him also across the road from his house is a place to buy truck parts so alas i will have to see.
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#213
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Posted 05 January 2005 - 08:41 AM
Steel balls should work, although I suspect that in the case of alumnium foil the more aggressive shape of hex nuts helps. Nuts are probably a lot cheaper (?3.33 per 100 from Screwfix).
#214
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Posted 05 January 2005 - 03:13 PM
Hmmm i think they are but im unsure,How many does it take to fill youre milling jar?And broadsword do you hvae any pics of it as i like the idea (especialy since i think i have on lying around)
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#215
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Posted 05 January 2005 - 03:33 PM
I'm not completely sure that you'd need a hundred. The nuts I use are actually quite a bit bigger than M12, but are too big really. I think that you could get away with using 100 in a 4" jar, although maybe you would need a few more. It might be a good idea to buy a couple of hundred. Your call...
#216
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Posted 05 January 2005 - 06:12 PM
I probably will thanks for the advice,Do you know what stpe the AL is from a cofee grinder?Because since flake is better you could put it in a ballmill to try and flatten it out a little,On the ballmill if i connect the windscreen wiper directly to the screw end of a cap would i need somthing on the other end to distribute the weight?
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#217
Guest_Daniel Scott_*
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Posted 06 January 2005 - 01:19 AM
Well here is a pic of my first crappy attempt at a ball mill with a windscreen wiper motor.
As you can see its on an angle and it just sits there! The piece of wooden dowel stops it from moving off the "stand" It rotates towards the dowel of course. Also windscreen wiper motors get HOT! The end cap is just forced on there as far as it will go. It worked well but a pain to get off cause you have to hit it on a table to wedge it off. I would put a counter balance on it so perhaps it is still direct drive but it runs on rollers. Then it wouldn't be such a bad mill. Oh and I forgot to say I just drilled a hole in that end cap and put a washer on each side and a nut to the motor. The cap is also glued to the jar.
As you can see its on an angle and it just sits there! The piece of wooden dowel stops it from moving off the "stand" It rotates towards the dowel of course. Also windscreen wiper motors get HOT! The end cap is just forced on there as far as it will go. It worked well but a pain to get off cause you have to hit it on a table to wedge it off. I would put a counter balance on it so perhaps it is still direct drive but it runs on rollers. Then it wouldn't be such a bad mill. Oh and I forgot to say I just drilled a hole in that end cap and put a washer on each side and a nut to the motor. The cap is also glued to the jar.
#218
adamw
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Posted 06 January 2005 - 07:07 PM
Does the barrel rub on that piece of wood underneath? Friction potential!!!
Open motor - spark potential!!
Sorry to be cruel, but it looks unsafe!
Open motor - spark potential!!
Sorry to be cruel, but it looks unsafe!
75 : 15: 10... Enough said!
#219
Pretty green flames
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Posted 06 January 2005 - 07:29 PM
what are the things called that hold the berings in place
Any idea where they're usually sold.
Look at pictures 4 and 5 for details
http://www.wecreate4.../mill/mill.html
thnx
Any idea where they're usually sold.
Look at pictures 4 and 5 for details
http://www.wecreate4.../mill/mill.html
thnx
#220
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Posted 06 January 2005 - 08:13 PM
Wipper motors are ok actually, they are sealed well. If you think about it, they need to be sealed well to stop things like water getting in them.
#221
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Posted 07 January 2005 - 12:10 AM
Yes I know its running on bare wood 
The wood is nice and shiney now. I don't use this mill anymore partly because I have used the motor for other things.
Pretty green flames, they are called saddle brackets for bearings they they cost a fortune! They are like 5$ for a bearing! Rip off. I came up with an alternative.
Using the copper pipe saddle clips and a router, my bearings hold in rather well. There are also galvanised versions for PVC. I have one galvanised one because after over 100 hours of operation one of the clips snapped due to a loose screw. They are easily replaced and cost next to nothing at $3 for a 10 pack.
That was a test before I hacked up my mill parts.
The wood is nice and shiney now. I don't use this mill anymore partly because I have used the motor for other things.Pretty green flames, they are called saddle brackets for bearings they they cost a fortune! They are like 5$ for a bearing! Rip off. I came up with an alternative.
Using the copper pipe saddle clips and a router, my bearings hold in rather well. There are also galvanised versions for PVC. I have one galvanised one because after over 100 hours of operation one of the clips snapped due to a loose screw. They are easily replaced and cost next to nothing at $3 for a 10 pack.
That was a test before I hacked up my mill parts.
Edited by Daniel Scott, 07 January 2005 - 12:13 AM.
#222
Pretty green flames
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Posted 07 January 2005 - 05:20 AM
thank you Daniel
#223
alany
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Posted 07 January 2005 - 07:25 AM
Actually they are normally called "pillow block bearings".
I used the same pipe saddle idea for my mill to keep the costs down:
The bearings themselves are skate bearings which are quite cheap (about $1) when purchased in bulk from http://www.smallparts.com.au/ Their shipping is expensive, a flat-rate $25 IIRC, so I just make a big purchase at once to offset it.
I used the same pipe saddle idea for my mill to keep the costs down:
The bearings themselves are skate bearings which are quite cheap (about $1) when purchased in bulk from http://www.smallparts.com.au/ Their shipping is expensive, a flat-rate $25 IIRC, so I just make a big purchase at once to offset it.
Alan Yates
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#224
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Irish Pyro
Posted 07 January 2005 - 01:32 PM
Well i have been thinking first off all im going to have motor in a seperate secfion (seperated by wood although it will still be direct drive).Now im going to attach the jar to the motor via a screw to the end cap (a screw on one) and all this will be housed in a concrete box to minimise noise.My media will be lead.And correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure steel does spark when it bangs off other bits of steel
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#225
Flashy
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Safety First!
Posted 17 January 2005 - 08:22 PM
Just a thought about windscreen wiper motors, i have driven for at least four hours with my windscreen wipers on constantly. The motor may have got hot but it didn't burn out. If you were to run the motor on a belt or chain drive placed say 6ft from the milling jar, this method shoul be safe. Please correct me if I am wrong.
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