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#496 treefingers

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Posted 19 February 2007 - 02:56 PM

Adding various solvents will more likely damage the seals on your barrel than effectively remove the metal powders. I recomend that you get a new barrel and set of media for milling metals, but as you have stated the reason for not doing this, I would use the metals as they are, buy finer ones or get a new aparatus for milling metals. Milling BP in a jar with even trace amounts of metal powders in it or on the media ( I believe even hardened lead is quite skilled at having metal powders stick to it, only to be abandoned back into the jar at a later date) makes the procedure a whole lot less safe.


Thanks I thought that might be the case. I have spare ceramic milling media which could be used for the metals but as i'd rather not take the risk i'll leave it.

It pains me to do it but I may try taking apart my shiny new rock tumbler and reconstructing it to allow multiple jars to be used. I have a fear that I may break it though, i've never been to confident with electronics.
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#497 seymour

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 08:38 AM

Treefingers, how fine is the Mg ( and other metals you intend to mill) and how fine do you want them?
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#498 treefingers

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Posted 20 February 2007 - 03:01 PM

The magnesium is about roughly 30-50 mesh spehrical which I'm hoping to grind to 200+ . I also have a handful of irregulaly shaped titanium chips about 3mm across which i'm hoping to get to 20-60 mesh for gerbs etc and finally fairly corse Barium Nitrate which should be fine enough for stars so i'm guessing again 200+.
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#499 Caramanos2000

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Posted 29 March 2007 - 01:32 AM

How long should I have to mill 100g of Bp in a Chicago Electric Tumbler? Also, can I use the BP in powdered form to launch 1" shells? Or should I granulate it for these?

#500 RegimentalPyro

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 02:51 PM

You should granulate.

As for the milling time, it depends on what you want to use it for, and how good your charcoal is. I use home made willow charcoal and mill as follows

Charcoal and sulphur for two hours
Add KNO3 and mill for a further 3 hours

Once granulated this gives me perfectly acceptable lift. 15g will lift a 130g shell to a lovely height!

#501 TheExplosionist

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 12:32 PM

Ball mill construction problem

I have finished my machine. Once the 20L barrel is filled with 30kgs of steel media it rests between the 20mm steel drive shafts which are 278mm apart from edge to edge. Once turned very slowly by hand it sinks quickly and stops moving.
This so called ball mill jar Posted Image
is far too thin and it clearly bends under the pressure.
So far my only idea is to attach sheet steel around the barrel using resin to strengthen it.

Edited by TheExplosionist, 18 April 2007 - 12:34 PM.


#502 karlfoxman

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 01:32 PM

Firstly you really dont need to put such a huge title, secondly what are you wanting to mill in that?

#503 RegimentalPyro

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 05:08 PM

You could try moving the drive shafts closer together, or add a third free roller underneath to add some support.

I'd also like to ask why you are using such a large barrel? What quantities are you milling!

#504 TheExplosionist

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 06:04 PM

It is not about quantity, it is about size. Grinding metal down requires a lot of force which is proportional to the diameter.
The machineThe noise it makes while empty is like a landslide or an avalanche.
It is not possible to move the drive shafts as the belt is a fixed distance
Adding a third roller would be a lot more work and I don't have any bearing units available.

Edited by TheExplosionist, 18 April 2007 - 06:17 PM.


#505 Andrew

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Posted 18 April 2007 - 07:04 PM

First off, those are very, very thin rollers, 20mm is nothing. 20mm is about right for a mill jar 1/2 the diameter (1/4 the volume) of that jar. You need rollers at least 40mm - 50mm, especially the driving roller. If using heavy media your looking more towards 3".

I believe those milling jars are intended for spherical, lighter and harder ceramic media not steel media which is about 2 - 3 times more dense.

I think you have a mill mistaken for a modern day diesel powered car. The idea is that they are as noisy as humanly possible. The more noise the heavier the milling and the faster the job gets done. They only go quiet when they have powdered everything inside to a very fine, free flowing powder and metals tend not to do this so your stuck with noise. Once way to eliminate the noise is to dig a f*ck off big hole in your garden, put the mill in it, then cover with a aggregate sack with 1/4 of a ton of damp mud in it. How could I possibly know this works???; because I made a mill for a 20L mill jar exactly like yours to mill Aluminium, we dug a hole like described and you had to listen hard to hear it @ 6m. That mill had 24mm hard silicone lined steel shafts, a close size to yours but we used ceramic media which is much lighter and still did the job. The jar was also lined with a softish rubber to gain a hundred times more traction.

Also from the picture of your mill I reckon you have all the ratios well far out. You should be looking for about 0.6 - 1.2 revolutions per second. To achieve that you would need to spin those drive shafts like their intended purpose. By the looks of it they do and that is most of your problem.

You need bigger rollers so that the ratio between the roller's revs and the jar's rev is as low as you can make it. By doing this you reduce the pressure exerted on the jar walls, this in tern prevents jar buckling. You also increase the traction area and reduce the sheer force required to spin the jar, this means your high friction material (of which there is none of on your machine) lasts longer. You can't spin a metal bar against a plastic jar really fast and expect anything useful to happen. The lower this ratio is the longer your jar lasts; direct drive (i.e. the ratio of 1:1) is one of the best possible solutions for a mill in this respect.

Your motor also does not look up to the job, you really need at least 1.5hp - 2hp to run a mill that size and heavy continuously without damaging either the mill, jar or motor. I'm just guessing but it looks more like 1/2hp.



You need:

1. More power.

2. Wider rollers.

3. Wear resistant roller surfaces with moderate tack.
(hard silicone tube for example)

4. High friction jar contact surfaces.
(typically softer as it needs to flex a little to gain traction area)

5. Lighter media for that particular jar.

6. Correct pulley ratios.

7. Sealed bearings.
(can't see yours but trust me you need them if you haven't already)

8. Generally time, money and know-how to build an effective mill that big.

9. Basically a proper well made mill.



I have a 3L mill that mills Aluminium perfectly well. Guess what the jar is; a PET cider bottle, to prevent jar buckling a modicum of liquid butane is added to the jar before sealing. The pressure remains at 4 bar no matter how much you add (the vapour pressure at standard temperature of butane), well below the yield pressure of the bottle. It is also a direct drive mill using a gearbox and has no driven rollers. One other way to mill Aluminium well is to get it really cold and then mill it.

The moral is, don't exceed your known empirical limits unless your prepared to research and fail a little. Also this has all been said many times before on this forum. And you don't need a massive mill.

Edited by Andrew, 18 April 2007 - 07:09 PM.


#506 TheExplosionist

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Posted 12 May 2007 - 07:03 PM

Ball mill progress:

Improvements:
Reduced the media weight.
Added yellow tape around the outside; it still buckles into an oval shape half the time.

The machine works, but the noise pollution is a serious problem.
After 3 minutes the grinding process is already evident:
Posted Image
I'm going to turn it on for a hour if I can as next door can hardly complain after playing a wonderful chainsaw duet for an hour or so.

#507 MFX

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Posted 28 May 2007 - 12:11 PM

Hi, I may have missed it but I don't recall seeing any suggestion of using multiple sizes of balls in a ball mill? I came across a Russian patent that describes using 3 sizes of balls in the mill in the range "5-10mm" "10-20mm" and "20-30mm" i.e. you either use 5,10 and 20mm balls in your mill upto a combination of 10,20 and 30mm balls depending on what you're milling and how fine you want the finished product. I assume the idea is the smaller balls fill the voids between the bigger ones giving more crushing surface area. If anyone wants to research further go to http://ep.espacenet....ch?locale=en_ep and search for "Aluminium powder ball mill" or just "ball mill" and go through all the results until you find something of interest. Note many of the patents are only really suited to industrial use but many can probably be modified to work for the hobbyist.
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#508 dr thrust

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:35 AM

hi been thinking of a cheapo high powered ball mill,i was looking in my local machine mart and i saw a cheap pillar drill about £38 could i just take,cut, chop,pull the drill head (motor, pulley,chuck off the pillar in one piece and turn it sideways mount it on a board?i could put one roller striaght in th chuck! just a matter of putting a another roller at the side,these things sometimes have stepped pulleys in the head so you can change the drill speed with little or no bother what do you think? ps i dont want to paw through old rubbish tips for motors like a starveing racoon ;)

#509 dr thrust

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Posted 02 June 2007 - 11:43 AM

Hi, I may have missed it but I don't recall seeing any suggestion of using multiple sizes of balls in a ball mill? I came across a Russian patent that describes using 3 sizes of balls in the mill in the range "5-10mm" "10-20mm" and "20-30mm" i.e. you either use 5,10 and 20mm balls in your mill upto a combination of 10,20 and 30mm balls depending on what you're milling and how fine you want the finished product. I assume the idea is the smaller balls fill the voids between the bigger ones giving more crushing surface area. If anyone wants to research further go to http://ep.espacenet....ch?locale=en_ep and search for "Aluminium powder ball mill" or just "ball mill" and go through all the results until you find something of interest. Note many of the patents are only really suited to industrial use but many can probably be modified to work for the hobbyist.

hi me again anybody tried 5,10,20mm balls mixed with round and hex bar? or is it over the top?

#510 SwissTony

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Posted 10 June 2007 - 06:17 PM

I have worked out how my tumble dryer motor works now :D
Not sure of the speed though as there are no markings what so ever :(
I am now after some decent pulleys.
Out of the motor are 2 shafts, 1 is roughly 10mm, the other is around 13mm which then steps down to roughly 5mm.
The shafts aren't keyed so i guess i will have to use grub screw pulleys.
Any good sources for decent pulleys??

Next question is, roller bars? which is best size to get and material??
I have seen 10mm and 1/2" steel bars on ebay, the great difficulty is getting pulleys to match the bars and the correct sizes.
Any recommendations for a noob?

Edited by SwissTony, 11 June 2007 - 09:28 PM.





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