42 replies to this topic

[Mortartube]

I assume that the above compositions need a binder? Where is it in the formula?

[digger]

I assume that the above compositions need a binder? Where is it in the formula?

Knowing Shimizu's writings I assume it will be plus 3% SGRS

[Mortartube]

Thanks, it has just turned into +4% Dextrin for me.

[pyrotechnist]

Does anyone know the best charcoal to use for D1 glitters? I seem to get mixed effects. I have at hand willow (coarse and airfloat), paper charcoal, pine charcoal (coarse and airfloat) and mixed wood charcoal (coarse and airfloat). I am wanting to achieve a long golden tail to help compliment the glitter more.

[spanner]

I’ve gotten my best results from using commercial hardwood airfloat. I also like to use a few parts of fairly coarse charcoal (60-100 mesh). This adds to the tail quite nicely. From your selection, I'd probably go with the mixed. Some 100'ish mesh pine might be interesting to add...

[seymour]

It has been said that bioth pine and willow charcoal do not produce very good glitters. However I have used both of them with no problems before.

As with Spanner, I prefer using commercial mixed hardwood. What is more important is the Aluminium and the preparation of the composition.

[pyrotechnist]

The mixed wood charcoal I have is just one I cooked from a bag of fire wood which to what it says is a mixture of different woods. I may try combining both the mixed, pine and willow to see what effects I get with both airfloat and coarse. NOT LONG TO GO!!! just 16 days to get these stars made and dry, 200 of them.

[Mortartube]

The Shimizu magnalium glitter stars. Do they need priming? Looking at the formula I would assume that they will light quite easily but as I haven't made them before, I don't want to waste any.

[pyrotrev]

I've tried these comps and unless you're really blasting them they light well if you use finely ground ingredients. The grade of aluminium is critical, but Tiranti seems to be OK.

[Mortartube]

Thanks. I thought they should be okay with all of that Pot Nitrate in there.

[Mumbles]

I prime everything just to be safe. The stars may not need it, but I prefer to add a level of safety on a shell I've spent several hours on. It's very disappointing when it all works great, but you blow all your stars blind.

[pyrotechnist]

Is it necessary to add Boric acid to the water/alcohol mix when making a batch of pumped DI? I have made them before without boric acid with no side effects.

[maxman]

I think it depends what aluminium you use and how much you make and if you roll or pump them. A large mass of damp comp waiting to be pumped or cut, with unprotected aluminium may cause the comp to heat up. Whereas 100g rolled with say 200mesh al will most likely give no problems. Boric acid is easy to get and cheap so it is added insurance!

[pyrotechnist]

I heard on APC forum though that the boric acid will react with the Sodium Bicarb rendering the Sodium Bicarb useless because it neutralizes it if I remember correctly.

[MDH]

Then the trick is to find a solvent which will effectively dissolve the boric acid but not the bicarbonate.