Milling Media
#181
Posted 02 May 2006 - 04:38 PM
#182
Posted 03 May 2006 - 11:40 AM
If memory serves me correctly about 8 to 9% and about 3% tin to ensure a good pour. Thats what is used for casting hard lead bullets.what % of antimony is in hardened lead? just approximately, as i managed to get a fair bit of lead (soft) for free, and i can easily melt antimony and lead together.
#183
Posted 04 May 2006 - 10:52 AM
#184
Posted 06 May 2006 - 03:13 PM
If you're thinking of the Beach tumbler, I would advise against it, I had to do a certain amount of modifications before the one I bought would mill stuff properly; maybe the little Evans one is better, the design looks more promising. Don at the Tideswell rock shop is a nice guy though, and very helpful.I bought them anyway, and I will find some other use if not, but I am thinking of buying a rock tumbler to go with them from a place in Tideswell, Derbyshire
#185
Posted 10 June 2006 - 01:27 PM
Edited by KNO3, 10 June 2006 - 05:32 PM.
#186
Posted 12 June 2006 - 07:56 PM
#187
Posted 12 June 2006 - 08:38 PM
Edited by KNO3, 12 June 2006 - 08:44 PM.
#188
Posted 13 June 2006 - 10:40 PM
If you're thinking of the Beach tumbler, I would advise against it, I had to do a certain amount of modifications before the one I bought would mill stuff properly; maybe the little Evans one is better, the design looks more promising. Don at the Tideswell rock shop is a nice guy though, and very helpful.
Sorry too late, already bought the Beach tumbler, but had not much trouble with it. The problem of the mill jar slipping against the rollers was fixed by just applying some large model aeroplane wing holding rubber bands to the mill jar, and have not had any other problems.
In 1 hour milling I got something much faster than I had ever got with a mortar and pestle. In 24 hours I had something that karl used as a break in a rocket header and he said it was ok. Also the break in the new payload rocket (worked this time!) video posted here was 3 hour milled balsa BP (very fast, and amazing stuff, would recommend anyone to try using balsa charcoal!).
I was just after a small mill to get me started and although it is low quality, it does the job well enough and seems to make a nice cheap mill for lazy people like me that would rather spend time making pyro than ball mills
Pictures from the shop are here . My free server has too many problems and is not even letting me log in now, so I couldn't upload the pictures I took onto it, going to have to just put up with the shop ones for now.
Even the lead fishing weights have had no problems, although I'm guessing there is a small amount of lead contamination in my BP. Does anyone know if this would cause much of a problem? Or is it just a case of me needing to replace them eventually?
#189
Posted 14 June 2006 - 01:07 AM
#190
Posted 14 June 2006 - 05:48 PM
Sorry, i dont quite follow you, do you mean flux it to take away the impurities on the top, because i think that i can just skim it for that, otherwise i dont know what you mean, thanks!I want to say it is around 700C for the antimony, but I am not sure. Tin is much easier to alloy. Another common practice is to mix the pure lead with 50/50 lead/tin solder. That alloys nearly instantly. You may need to flux the mixture though in order to clean it up. In fact, after you attempt to alloy it I suggest fluxing it to clean up anything that didn't alloy.
#191
Posted 14 June 2006 - 09:50 PM
Sorry, i dont quite follow you, do you mean flux it to take away the impurities on the top, because i think that i can just skim it for that, otherwise i dont know what you mean, thanks!
Skimming it won't get them all out. For lead, I use beeswax. I drop a small piece on top, and it ignites. Stir it in (very important, you can use beeswax a few times to get it all out).
Skimming it without flux just gets some slag out, using flux makes it all collect and go to the top for easy skimming.
#192
Posted 17 June 2006 - 09:20 PM
Ok, thaks, I will do that. Any impurities that are in there will come from the lead or any oxides that form, because my tin and antimony are 99.9+%. Cheers for the advice, although im starting to think that maybe i should just try brass rod first, and get my ball mill working befor trying more complex methds of making the media. I can get 110mm PVC tube, and i can get various sizes of brass rod, so what size rod would be acceptable?Skimming it won't get them all out. For lead, I use beeswax. I drop a small piece on top, and it ignites. Stir it in (very important, you can use beeswax a few times to get it all out).
Skimming it without flux just gets some slag out, using flux makes it all collect and go to the top for easy skimming.
Edited by KNO3, 17 June 2006 - 09:21 PM.
#193
Posted 18 June 2006 - 02:03 AM
#194
Posted 18 June 2006 - 09:45 AM
Cheers!!! Ill get the closest to that. Cheers for the advice everybody!12mm ish would be good. I don't know the common sizes of rod in the UK, but something in the area.
#195
Posted 18 June 2006 - 08:29 PM
Regards
3 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 3 guests, 0 anonymous users