
Using PVA glue as a replacement to bind stars
#1
Posted 16 October 2008 - 05:14 PM
#2
Posted 16 October 2008 - 05:39 PM
Im wondering if an alcohol based spray glue might be another option for you? (i.e it disapates/drys quicker), but is it safe to mix with star compositions?
ok guys, are there chemists out there who could advise!
#3
Posted 16 October 2008 - 05:56 PM
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#4
Posted 16 October 2008 - 06:30 PM
KN03 dissolved in IPA...mixed 1:1 with iron filings worked well.....ran short on time, so didnt get round to trying my AL flake.....didnt want to rush anything....I'll look into it 2morrow.
#5
Posted 16 October 2008 - 07:41 PM
1) will waterproof the grain a bit more.
2) dry time will be reduced.
3) no smelly or toxic alcohol will be used.
4) it will also act as a sort of fuel like Arthur mentioned, maybe releasing chlorine in colour formulas?
5) help reduce the break down of fuel within glitter stars due to using water.
Author: I assume you may just have to subtract the amount of fuel used within the formula for the amount of PVA binder used and do a few tests. New and weird effects may be achievable using this

#6
Posted 16 October 2008 - 09:17 PM
Well that's my approximation
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#7
Posted 16 October 2008 - 09:23 PM
#8
Posted 16 October 2008 - 09:35 PM
OK this may sound weird or stupid but is it possible to use a very small amount of PVA glue as a replacement for water to bind stars that are sensitive to a lot of moisture like glitter for instance? As I see it the glue will dry quickly and leave the star with a nice solid plastic sheen that should also make it a little more resistant to weathering.
Back to the beginning for a moment, Just remember that PVA has a large water content and I assume that you will have to water it down somewhat to mix it in properly.
It is an interesting idea, but just remember when making glitter stars etc to weigh the water (7% - 10% max) into the composition and work it in well with gloved hands. It may look still pretty dry, but so long as the mix is no longer dusty you will be able to pump it and it will dry rock hard with excellent glitter results.
Water binding systems have a great many merits, easy, cheap no nasty vapours, quickly dried in a warm place and it is easy to clean down your tools afterwards too. I used to use solvent based systems, but I now only use them where absolutely necessary to stop unwanted reactions in certain comps and with certain hygroscopic chemicals.
Edited by digger, 16 October 2008 - 09:36 PM.
#9
Posted 16 October 2008 - 09:51 PM
As a good example, pour a droplet of PVA onto an unwanted flat surface, then come back to it after a few minutes and you will find it has formed a film over the surface. Another hour or so and it will appear solid, but cut into it with a sharp blade and you will still find liquid PVA in the centre, sealed off from the air and unable to dry. Unless using very low concentrations in your comp, it may cause similar problems.
It may be a useful technique when rolling stars that you can dry in various layers though.
Will be interesting to see how it affects the burn rate and drying times.
#10
Posted 16 October 2008 - 09:51 PM
#11
Posted 16 October 2008 - 09:54 PM
#12
Posted 16 October 2008 - 10:00 PM
does pvc not react with boric acid ?????
#13
Posted 16 October 2008 - 10:06 PM

#14
Posted 17 October 2008 - 01:15 PM
#15
Posted 17 October 2008 - 01:26 PM
it would act as a fuel and slow burn rate down, might work in colerd stars as a chlorine doner? thay would also burn slow, and might leave a stickeymatch like smell?/ and might need primer unless the glue is wateery
Unfortunately PVA has no chlorine in it.
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