11 replies to this topic

[d3v]

Hey guys I'm trying to replicate the ignition systems airsoft/paintball pyrotechnics work, i.e friction striking.

Would a blob of dampened sulpher powder moulded around the tip of visco fuse work if struck along a length of sandpaper?

[pyromaniac303]

No, sulfur on its own wont ignite with friction. Most, if not all friction ignition compositions use potassium chlorate mixed with a sensitiser and fuel. They are incredibly dangerous to mix in any quantity though, and should be avoided. Here is a page listing a few igniter comps: PFP Database - Other - Friction Ignition

[d3v]

thanks for the link. how come sulpher on it's own won't ignite by friction? Isn't it only sulpher that makes up match heads?

[Richard H]

Do some research on pyrotechnic compositions and what they actually are. Redox is the name of the game!

[pyromaniac303]

No, the composition on the end of match heads still needs some sort of oxidiser as far as I know, and it also needs a fuel. They generally use phosphorous but that is impossible to get hold of as its used for drugs manufacture too, and besides that its difficult to handle safely.

This makes interesting reading, but it may be best to check all the facts from reputable sources:
Match article on Wikipedia

[d3v]

seems like the striker comps arn't worth the trouble.

I've tried taping several "strike anywhere" matches to sides of a visco fuze but it is unreliable at best. I'm going to try and smother the whole head in damp BP to increase ignition reliability and try it when it it's dry.

Would the dampness render the matchead unfunctional or can it dry and become flammable once again like BP can??


I remember when I was very young crushing match heads up into powder that the comp easily separated from the wood so maybe that's another option. But again I would need to damped it in order to mould it around the visco head.... again, can strike anywhere match head comps come "back to life" after drying from being wet?

Edited by d3v, 08 November 2008 - 01:46 AM.

[spanner]

Hey guys I'm trying to replicate the ignition systems airsoft/paintball pyrotechnics work, i.e friction striking.

Exactly what is it that you want to acheive?

[Arthur Brown]

Study the classic texts -Lancaster,-Weingart, -Davis and others Most have a description of the chemistry formulation and manufacture of friction igniters. Sadly even succeding in all the intricacies and incompatibilities of manufacture of sensitive primers, will not really help you to make safe paintball pyro. Stuff for use among people NEEDS to be properly, professionally made.

[paul]

Sounds like easy to ignite smoke-"generators" to me

Btw: There are very reliablöe ways, doing it with matches, fuse and a bp slurry. Just research the topic a bit deeper.
Or lets say it this way: If one thought pure sulfur would be friction sensitive and can ignite
on its own, he should do A LOT of research before doing ANY further work with one or another pyrotechnic composition

[spanner]

Sounds like easy to ignite smoke-"generators" to me

Didn't think of that, but I'll wager you're spot-on. Could even be initiated chemically for that matter, but I would think too, that a primed piece of visco or twisted black match combined with safety matches might be as good as need be. That would only require a strip of "striker" to be carried.

[d3v]

well guys I'm going to be using a narrow cardboard tube solely for the fuze assembly and a separate tube for the charge compartment.

I had an excellent suggestion from someone here to use party popper squibs with a BP slurry. I will be trying this first hence the reason for a totally separate fuse compartment to ensure the unit will not buckle under the pulling force required to pull the string on these little buggers.
I think I'll use a clay cap akin to a rocket nozzle in order to choke the squib so it can be pulled and activated at the top of the tube where the BP/fuse head is. I'll need to cap off about 2cm down from the tube to create an empty cavity to ensure the BP dosn't crumble away down the tube.

Any suggestions on the type of clay to use? I want something fast drying...

I'll also try a match/BP slurry as I originally planned. I'll give each method about 10 tests and pick the one which is most reliable. I'll report back here with my findings.

Edited by d3v, 08 November 2008 - 02:49 PM.

[Asteroid]

Party poppers on't work. They have a tiny amount of flash in them, and generate far more sound and movement than heat. I think your best bet really is just to get a windproof jet lighter. If you get a decent one (around £30) they are worth their weight in gold.
I have this one and my only criticisms are that it has too small a fuel resevoir, i'd guess it would only give 3-4mins constant flame on low setting. (not a problem if you can afford to carry a refill bottle)
Also the waterproofing clip and platinum wire are very fragile. My wire has almost come off, I think it must have been poked when I was using it in the dark