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#451 pyrotrev

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 01:13 PM

I think cutting small stars might be difficult too because of the coarse Ti.
Trying to do something very beautiful but very dangerous very safely....

#452 digger

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 05:18 PM

hey guys, could somebody tell me the best way to form this star, ( i thought with this much metal it may be to difficult to roll ) but at the moment my options are roll or cut,

Red Ti star,

Sr(n03)2.............40
Ti.......................20 ..sponge
MgAl...................15..60#-->150
Pvc.....................15
Red gum...............5
Kclo4.....................5

i tried this on my test plate and it was very glittery and not as red as i was expecting, so i added 10 (Src03) and it did red up quite abit more so i'll give it another 10


Interesting the reddest stars I have made (blood red) have all been using Strontium Nitrate (around 50% usually) without the carbonate. Do you have parlon? if so give that a try instead of the PVC, I tend to find this better as it has more chlorine in it.

I have rolled similar comps using alcohol as a binder and also with SGRS and water, I know some who use acetone with the parlon (I am sure it is good, but those heavy explosive intoxicating vapours worry me).

I have pumped them using alcohol with excellent results.

I can't comment on cutting as I don't use this method.

P.S. you can probably cut down on the Ti considerably and get a great effect. I use in the region of 3% - 6% and never over 10% or the colour of the star can be overpowered by the white of the Ti (not to mention the cost).

Edited by digger, 28 January 2009 - 05:21 PM.

Phew that was close.

#453 knackers

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 07:34 PM

Interesting the reddest stars I have made (blood red) have all been using Strontium Nitrate (around 50% usually) without the carbonate. Do you have parlon? if so give that a try instead of the PVC, I tend to find this better as it has more chlorine in it.

I have rolled similar comps using alcohol as a binder and also with SGRS and water, I know some who use acetone with the parlon (I am sure it is good, but those heavy explosive intoxicating vapours worry me).

I have pumped them using alcohol with excellent results.

I can't comment on cutting as I don't use this method.

P.S. you can probably cut down on the Ti considerably and get a great effect. I use in the region of 3% - 6% and never over 10% or the colour of the star can be overpowered by the white of the Ti (not to mention the cost).



i thought the Ti content was a bit rich, but thats what the formula called for so i only made it up by 1/2, and you are absolutely right, " the colour was very over powered", i don't have parlon at present but have some in the mail, i'll rich up the nitrate, drop of the carbonate and Ti and see what happens,

when you say bind with Alcohol, do you mean 100% or mixed with water?

#454 knackers

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 07:36 PM

Also Digger, is there a specific reason you don't cut stars ?

#455 digger

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 10:07 PM

Also Digger, is there a specific reason you don't cut stars ?


It can be a great way to make stars quickly. However I don't use it as I find that I can get much better timing with both rolled and pumped / star plate stars.

Rolled stars are the only option (well maybe not strictly true) for colour changers. Once you have got a decent star roller and had a bit of practice then they can be knocked up very quickly.

Pumped stars are great for single effects, quick to make in a plate and again with a bit of care they can be made to all last about the same duration so there are not a couple of rogue long burning stars after all the others have finished.

I know with care cut stars can be sized accurately, it is just that I find the other methods more efficient with the tools I have. I am sure others will have their own opinions with equally valid reasoning.

P.S. If you are using the red gum as the binder then it has to be 100% alcohol which does sort of limit you to pumped / cut stars. I have rolled using 100% alcohol, but I find you end up using lots of alcohol.

Edited by digger, 28 January 2009 - 10:10 PM.

Phew that was close.

#456 knackers

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 04:29 AM

I think cutting small stars might be difficult too because of the coarse Ti.


ya reakon i might need a hacksaw, :P , i have rolled a few stars but read in smaller batches it was easier if not quicker to cut them, so i just cut a kno3/ Ti comp, i ended up with about 230 odd 8-->10 mm stars, ( probably more like 7---10mm and every size in between ) so the size is a little erratic, but at the moment for my puposes i'm not too worried about a few stars burning longer,

there's not too much amature competition here,, actually there's none,

so ive just made another proven nice red ( ive made this before ) but this time ive added a little Ti sponge and dextrin

it is,
K perc.......44
Sr(n03)2....31
Rgum.........15
Pvc.............8 but i took the Sr(n03)2 up to 40 and added 5% Ti and 5% dextrin so i can bind with Alcohol and water,

i hope that doesn't ruin it,, and i will roll them,, ( well try too )

thanks also to you digger for your help

Edit....my star roller in the picture is a pressed up 3mm plate with a windscreen wiper motor and s/s kitchen bowl, the speed is fully adjustable through a 0-->20 v 5 amp dc transformer

Edited by phill 63, 29 January 2009 - 04:35 AM.


#457 seymour

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 11:52 PM

If you are going to be adding Titanium to your red, you might want to add some Magnalium too. This burns in the flame instead of the Titanium, and helps ensure that the full effect of the Titanium is in the tail of the star. Plus, it will brighten the red up too!!!

Phill, have you got any pictures of your organic red burning?
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#458 knackers

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 02:33 AM

ive rolled some stars already to about 8-->10 mm but have lots that are still only about 4mm, so i'll add some MgAl to those,

i'll take a few pics tonight and show you, i can't vid them at the moment coz i only have a digi cam and even a small vid is about 10 meg, but i can cut some stills off, would 3% be ok ?,

i nitrated my Sr(no3)2 myself from (Srco3)

Edited by phill 63, 30 January 2009 - 04:12 AM.


#459 seymour

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 03:44 AM

3% Magnalium?? Personally, I like to add a bit more, but even 3% would brighten the star nicely. As for improving the Ti tail, I'm not sure that it'd be enough.
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#460 knackers

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 04:00 AM

i've put 3% in and its milling at present,

if you read the news you would know we are in a little hot spot at the moment, we've had 46, 43 and 44 celcius here over the last 3 days, so i thought i'd put my stars out for 1/2 hour or so to quicken up the drying rate,, OOOPS :o , twas about 15 min too long, " my stars have shrunk quicker on the outside and split,, oh well, there's nothing like first hand experience

#461 knackers

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 12:24 PM

If you are going to be adding Titanium to your red, you might want to add some Magnalium too. This burns in the flame instead of the Titanium, and helps ensure that the full effect of the Titanium is in the tail of the star. Plus, it will brighten the red up too!!!

Phill, have you got any pictures of your organic red burning?


did you mean metallic red ?

i cut this still from a test burn vid i did just now ( havn't gotten around to editing vids with pc properly yet ) i hope this pic is viewable, cam may have been a little close,
http://img145.images...allicredqm3.jpg

Edited by phill 63, 30 January 2009 - 12:31 PM.


#462 spanner

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 12:58 PM

That red should look great in a star.

OT- does anyone have the formula for Baechle System 7: Violet stars?

It and any of the other colors from the "system 7" would be appreciated.

I have this comp from his System 5:
Purple Organic Fueled Star Baechle System 5: Violet
Potassium Perchlorate............40
Ammonium Perchlorate...........30
Copper (II) Oxychloride............9
Red Gum................................7
Rosin (colophony)....................7
Strontium Carbonate................5
Dextrin..................................4
Black copper oxide can be subbed for the Cu oxychloride but the addition of a chlorine donor might be needed.

This star has no tail. They burn slowly, and are a very nice star overall.

EDIT- Thanks digger, for those formulas!

Edited by spanner, 30 January 2009 - 01:52 PM.


#463 digger

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Posted 30 January 2009 - 01:29 PM

Here's a few

Baechle System 7: Violet

Ammonium Perchlorate 40
Potassium Perchlorate 20
Copper(II) Oxychloride 15
Red Gum 8
Potassium Benzoate 5
Hexamine 5
Parlon 5
Dextrin 1.8
Guar Gum 0.2

Baechle System 7: Green

Barium Nitrate 48
Ammonium Perchlorate 28
Red Gum 10
Potassium Perchlorate 5
Potassium Benzoate 5
Hexamine 2
Dextrin 1.8
Guar Gum 0.2

Baechle System 7: Red

Ammonium Perchlorate 35
Potassium Perchlorate 25
Strontium Carbonate 16
Red Gum 12
Potassium Benzoate 5
Hexamine 3
Charcoal Airfloat 2
Dextrin 1.8
Guar Gum 0.2
Phew that was close.

#464 knackers

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Posted 09 March 2009 - 10:01 AM

If you're looking for a nice Emerald green try Kyle's:

Name: Emerald Green MgAl
Source: Kyle Kepley
Barium Nitrate 50
Parlon 18
Magnalium, granular, -325 mesh 12
Potassium Perchlorate 8
Sulfur 5
Charcoal Airfloat 5
Dextrin 5
Red Gum 2

Very good colour, will work as cut, rolled, pumped...


Hey CP, that emerald green is beautifull !! " just what i was after ", Do you have something that's equal to that in Blue ? or even close to it ?
ive tried a few blues including B10 but they all seem to be a bit light on,

thanks, phill

#465 knackers

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 08:03 AM

hey creepin_pyro, i'm rolling those stars as i speak, i cut some last night but the miniscule amount of red gum makes them a dream to roll,
when ever i roll stars with redgum i always end up with millions of cores and redgum all over the place.... but not with these, every little bit goes on !




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