Plastic Caps for timed inserts
#1
Posted 25 October 2012 - 09:10 PM
im after something different to use for my timed report inserts, iv seen some good reports from little plastic caps, not sure of their real name or what the caps are originaly used for.
if any one out there can point me in the right direction that would be cool.
here is what im useing at the momment, these are for rocket headers.
Paul.
2KNO3(s) + 3C(s) + S(s) -----> N2(g) + 3CO2(g) + K2S(s)
#2
Posted 25 October 2012 - 10:47 PM
I always use cardboard tubes I know it takes longer to make, but I am happier with the fallout.
Nice looking shell by the way.
#3
Posted 25 October 2012 - 10:49 PM
A6.0S --1/4 - 20 M6 6.0 38.1 1.0
Cap A6.0S fits 1.4inch and 6mm threads, is 38mm inside length and 1mm wall thickness.
Edited by Arthur Brown, 25 October 2012 - 10:56 PM.
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#4
Posted 25 October 2012 - 11:55 PM
Don't think you can get them in the UK, not a a decent price anyway,
I always use cardboard tubes I know it takes longer to make, but I am happier with the fallout.
Nice looking shell by the way.
Thanks Vic, yeah im quite happy with the cardboard tubes, im not to worried about fallout as i have access to some private farm land, i just really wanted to try something different, i may be able to pack a bit more in the headers if the caps turn out a bit lighter .
5 x timed / mixed stars
12 x timed / De core
cheers
Paul.
http://www.mocap.co.uk/ and other cap plug makers will send fair quantities for beer tokens.
A6.0S --1/4 - 20 M6 6.0 38.1 1.0
Cap A6.0S fits 1.4inch and 6mm threads, is 38mm inside length and 1mm wall thickness.
Thanks for the link Arthur, just the sort of place i was looking for i will be trying a few caps from there.
Cheers
Paul.
2KNO3(s) + 3C(s) + S(s) -----> N2(g) + 3CO2(g) + K2S(s)
#5
Posted 26 October 2012 - 03:18 AM
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#6
Posted 26 October 2012 - 12:22 PM
http://www.amateurpy...roup-pre-order/
#7
Posted 26 October 2012 - 01:04 PM
Item SC 1/4-14 might be OK - 6.35mm ID (0.25 inch) - ideal for time fuse and 22.35mm long.
200 for £12.
#8
Posted 26 October 2012 - 07:21 PM
Thanks phil, i had looked on your site already, those can sets are not really what i need. Thanks for posting the link though .
Paul.
Not sure if this is of use as it's in the US, but there's a group buy currently open over at APC:
http://www.amateurpy...roup-pre-order/
Cheers Cr pyro, they are just what i need, my sister lives in the states so i may just get some and get her to bring them over for Xmas, would save on a bunch of shipping.
Paul.
How about here - http://www.capxpress...tail&series=145
Item SC 1/4-14 might be OK - 6.35mm ID (0.25 inch) - ideal for time fuse and 22.35mm long.
200 for £12.
Thanks Rip Rap, i think iv found what iv been looking for now, but thanks for coming up with that link .
Cheers
Paul.
2KNO3(s) + 3C(s) + S(s) -----> N2(g) + 3CO2(g) + K2S(s)
#9
Posted 27 October 2012 - 12:16 AM
I've used cardboard tubes up until now, but I've noticed some of the inserts don't explode, even though careful examination of the videos show all the fuses light. I came to the conclusion that some of the tubes must get crushed or broken in the break - I use light spiral wound tubes, not the substantial parallel ones I see in your pics. So I'll be switching to cap plugs in future also, as they're very much cheaper than even my cheap and nasty cardboard tubes.
#10
Posted 27 October 2012 - 12:50 PM
http://www.mossplastics.com/
#11
Posted 27 October 2012 - 03:34 PM
But as Vic said very nice looking shells,i am rather fond of cannisters myself partically crossetts.
#12
Posted 27 October 2012 - 11:58 PM
The cap plugs Dagabu is offering on APC are the ones the legendary TR uses for his 4F rockets, so I would say yes, they are exactly what you're looking for.
I've used cardboard tubes up until now, but I've noticed some of the inserts don't explode, even though careful examination of the videos show all the fuses light. I came to the conclusion that some of the tubes must get crushed or broken in the break - I use light spiral wound tubes, not the substantial parallel ones I see in your pics. So I'll be switching to cap plugs in future also, as they're very much cheaper than even my cheap and nasty cardboard tubes.
Hi peret , yes i did notice that the plugs are the same ones TR uses.
Iv got some samples coming now so will try them out, if the volume is on par then im converted, but if not then im sticking with the tubes i already use, i had the same problem as you with some other tubes i was trying,they wasnt spiral wound but had quit thin walls, at least a 3rd failed in each header i tested, most likely spliting.
Paul.
Go have a look at Moss Plastic Parts - they have more tubes, plugs and widgets that there's space to mention here:
http://www.mossplastics.com/
Thanks for the link Pyrotrev i will have a look at what they have.
Paul.
I see you are using pre formed cases rather than roll your own and was wondering how you find these,also i was wondering about your fuseing of your shells as it did not look like timefuse,
But as Vic said very nice looking shells,i am rather fond of cannisters myself partically crossetts.
Thanks Starseeker, they break nice but i too roll my own, its just that a family member gave me a nice bundle of the preformed so saves a bit of time and i dont want to waste them.
These are for rocket headers so dont need the time fuse, my delay takes care of that, the fuse is a very fast one and really spitty, it does the job real nice.
i too like the Crossetts, but im still playing with the break for them, im quite liking 75/25 bp/whistle bound like benzo, but still im not 100% happy.
have you dialed the break in for yours ?.
Paul.
2KNO3(s) + 3C(s) + S(s) -----> N2(g) + 3CO2(g) + K2S(s)
#13
Posted 28 October 2012 - 04:23 PM
I seem to have consistent and reliable breaks useing 70/30 flash (echart 3 to 5 micron ) i put a piece of blackmatch down into the shot hole approx half a inch long,then fill the cavity about 2/3rds full. then finnish useing some fairly thick card caps,a couple of pieces of masking tape crossways, then two to three turns of masking tape slightly proud (flattened down) and then finnish off with a couple of turns of 60lb craft,about 1/2 inch proud which i then snip into segments and then they flatten down nicely.
#14
Posted 29 October 2012 - 09:39 PM
Hi Paul,
I seem to have consistent and reliable breaks useing 70/30 flash (echart 3 to 5 micron ) i put a piece of blackmatch down into the shot hole approx half a inch long,then fill the cavity about 2/3rds full. then finnish useing some fairly thick card caps,a couple of pieces of masking tape crossways, then two to three turns of masking tape slightly proud (flattened down) and then finnish off with a couple of turns of 60lb craft,about 1/2 inch proud which i then snip into segments and then they flatten down nicely.
Pretty much the same finnishing here, im not that keen on the flash though, i dont like the bright break and it is a bit to harsh on some comps (well for me it is).
I may try some balsa bp break and see how that goes.
Paul.
2KNO3(s) + 3C(s) + S(s) -----> N2(g) + 3CO2(g) + K2S(s)
#15
Posted 29 October 2012 - 10:11 PM
To be honest i have not really noticed any disturbence to the effect using flash,my usual comp is blond streamer so this may mask the brightness of the flash.Pretty much the same finnishing here, im not that keen on the flash though, i dont like the bright break and it is a bit to harsh on some comps (well for me it is).
I may try some balsa bp break and see how that goes.
Paul.
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