V-pan mortars
#1
Posted 05 April 2015 - 10:47 PM
I am looking into the possibility of getting some v-pans made up however i am unsure of the dimensions.
Any help would be much appreciated :-)
#2
Posted 06 April 2015 - 08:03 AM
I've messaged one member who has one or more who may help you. HOWEVER these are often scaled to fit into the project for which they are needed. The size you have seen may not be the size that you want to use. The shape does seem to have some effect on the shape of the debris plume but that doesn't stop others from using gas mortars and other items like woks and other cooking pans. You are of course going to do tests first to check your method and the safety distances you really need. Wars killed people films about war cannot!
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#3
Posted 07 April 2015 - 01:15 PM
What supplier sells made and tested and certified Fx pans? certified for what? IMO any that do haven't understood what they are making and what it will be used for. 100g BP loose or 100g gel explosive? once or a hundred times?
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#5
Posted 07 April 2015 - 08:49 PM
The pans I saw were about 15" square by about 9" deep in a four sided pyramid made from 6mm ish plate steel. I've also seen cooking woks used! Also short firework mortars ( I have some 10" long 6" DIA mortars that work with BP. I also have some gas powered cannons.)
- Pyromax likes this
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#6
Posted 07 April 2015 - 10:19 PM
Given the right space and tools a mix of real explosion with some added air powered effect is probably best, just be very careful with gravel! any small stones move like bullets.
Keep mannequins and watermelons away from fireworks..they always get hurt..
#7
Posted 07 April 2015 - 11:55 PM
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#8
Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:50 PM
It's good to build up a collection, from 4" squared up to anything like 24".
Here's a few pointers when dealing with motar pots. (Sorry if this is teaching you to suck eggs)
Make sure the corners and bottom are reinforced. (I've seen lots of pots bulge out and crack due to no reinforcement)
Put handles on the sides, as pots are bloody heavy and a 2 man lift
It's handy to drill a 3mm in the base so twin flex can be passed through (or feed the line from the front and tie it of to the handle, as strung bounds and flex have a habit of flying out with the debris)
It's also a great idea to weld some half backs (scaffold fittings) to the side of the pot. That way it's easy to tube it off and help to stop any "bounce" when it goes off
When you place the pot, always put some sand bags down first, and surround the sides and top of the pot with the bags.
As far as guarantees go, the only thing you could do it get a coded welder to make them. But saying that, I know many very good welders who aren't coded. And also, many coded welders who are terrible.
#9
Posted 11 May 2015 - 07:55 PM
As far as guarantees go, the only thing you could do it get a coded welder to make them. But saying that, I know many very good welders who aren't coded. And also, many coded welders who are terrible.
Amen to that! Im gobsmacked sometimes by the "professional" welds I've seen that look like bird poo!
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#10
Posted 11 May 2015 - 08:13 PM
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