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Normally I use Martins&Martins blue 10mm timefuse in the spolette hole, that works well.
I even have to drill the spolette hole a bit with a 10mm metal drill, otherwise it wont fit.
Then still the timefuse needs a true hard push to get in the spolette hole, to be true tight.

But, then I thought the other day that this would fit tight enough and there would be no tiny seem left.
Wrong guess... Almost all canisters had a BIP, so use extra glue or rope and glue around the timefuse.
The combination of pressure and heat from the lift, together with outside influenses, is a true danger.

And thank you Toni for helping us out in this topic. If anybody knows Gamon casings it's you. :-)

Take the paint Thinner solvent and half fill an old jar.
Add two or tree small plastic shell parts to the thinner.
Close the jar with the lid, and keep it closed for 12 hours.
Next day, shake the jar well and you have the best glue to use.

This glue is the same material as the casings ans will "weld" the parts together.

Don't use super glue. This kind of glue gets very hard when dry, and is very sensitive for cracking.
One tiny crack the size of half a hair will cause liftcharge flames to pass through instanty.

The true and good way to paste shell parts together, is to solve some plastic shell parts in 1/2 liter of Thinner solvent used for painting, etc.
Add 1/2 liter Thinner in a glass jar with lid, and add like one broken plastic shell part in to it. Let is slove for 24 hours with closed lid.
If you do this right, you will get a half thin/thick substance, and this is the perfect fast glue to paste your identical shells with like a weld.

The old yellow PIC fuse had a copper wire as a core, ment to make the flame hotter when burning.
Maybe try to ad a thin copper wire on to the visco fuse, like wrapping it around or somehting?
If the copper wire used is burning/melting completely, then it's not to thick and will make the flame hotter.